Pier pleasures: Car-free side trip -- and more -- starts at Seattle's waterfront

McClatchy-Tribune News Service (MCT) - The scene in the storefront window reminded me of Kate Jacobs' novel "The Friday Night Knitting Club." Eight women sat around the heavy-looking, wooden table, working long needles through waves of colorful yarns. But this wasn't Friday night or fiction.

And in a town full of unique storefronts, Churchmouse Yarns & Teas on Washington's Bainbridge Island should not have been a surprise. After all, aren't such surprises the impetus for travel.

But I am getting ahead of the story.

I had arrived early for a weekend meeting in Seattle. I had a half-day to play tourist; I didn't have a car. A friendly word-of-advice from the concierge at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel led me to the excursion to nearby Bainbridge Island. The tip also provided an introduction to the many "pier pleasures" along Seattle's waterfront.

To get started on a Bainbridge Island mini-adventure, head to Pier 52, located at the foot of Marion Street in downtown Seattle and home of the Washington State Ferries (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries). The $6.70 roundtrip ticket (for a passenger with no vehicle) delivers a 35-minute ferry ride across the waters of Puget Sound as well as stunning views of the Seattle skyline and the Olympic Mountains.

From the island ferry terminal, it's a five-minute walk to the center of the charming town of Winslow. (There's also a longer, more scenic route to town along the Waterfront Trail, according to the free map I grabbed on the ferry.)

Winslow Way is, albeit not in name, the main street and a ribbon of various offerings, including antiques, books, fashions, furnishings, gifts, galleries, spas, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, a pub and more.

A quick stop at the Blackbird Bakery brought a welcome cup of coffee, a delicious "Seasonal Cream Cheese Apple Walnut Danish" and some overheard local conversations. Winslow is as friendly as it is picturesque and shares its strong sense of place.

Down the street, Bainbridge Arts and Crafts was celebrating its 60th anniversary and planning for "Mixed Nuts," an art exhibition by kids. The nonprofit gallery, which sells the work of more than 300 local and regional artists, has a seemingly nonstop calendar.

Bainbridge also boasts a collection of internationally known writers, so a trip to Eagle Harbor Book Company to peruse their works topped my list of "must-see" shops.

Upon leaving the bookstore and its new and used titles, I noticed Madrone Lane leading off Winslow Way and promising another stretch of retail therapy. At 118 Madrone, I found a warm welcome from Kit Hutchin, proprietor of Churchmouse Yarns & Teas.

The enthusiastic knitter was happy to show off some UFOs ("unfinished objects"). I bought some French "Le Palais des Thes" tea and left uplifted by Hutchin's definition of progress: Her unfinished works were all new _ emphasis on new _ UFOs.

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All too soon, it was time to return to Seattle.

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MORE PIER PLEASURES

If you have time, explore other pier pleasures along Seattle's waterfront. Here's a short list from myriad options.

SOUVENIRS: Generations of Seattle natives recall the wonder of their first childhood visit to Ye Olde Curiosity Shop on Pier 54. The shop has been a Seattle fixture, in one form or another, since 1899. Here, you can purchase such offbeat items as a shrunken head, a pig with three tails, Native American artifacts, real mummies (American, not Egyptian), back scratchers made of alligator feet and other exotic novelties from around the world. It's cluttered. It's fun. (www.yeoldecuriosityshop.com)

On Pier 56, the Simply Seattle shop offers, as its tagline says, "gifts that say Seattle" (www.simplyseattle.com/store). Topping that list is a coffee cup marking the success of the "Twilight" series of books by Stephenie Meyer and the movie of the same name. The cup's message: "Feel the bite. Forks, Washington." Another favorite item is the T-shirt declaring: "Intern. Grey's Anatomy. Seattle Grace Hospital." A note for trivia buffs: There is no Seattle Grace Hospital. The town of Forks, however, is situated in the heart of the Olympic Peninsula, about 98 miles west of Seattle.

EATERIES: Ivar's on Pier 54 and Anthony's Pier 66 are among the longtime favorite restaurants. In 1938, the late Ivar Haglund founded his namesake restaurant, which has received many acclaims for its seafood, especially its salmon. Next door, Ivar's Marketplace offers an array of merchandise, including Ivar's chowder _ ship some home. (www.ivars.net). At Pier 66, Anthony's (www.anthonys.com) offers three venues: the top-floor, elegant Anthony's 66; the casual Bell Street Diner; and the quick-dining Fish Bar. If you miss these dining experiences during your Seattle visit, plan to arrive early at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport _ both restaurants have Sea-Tac locations.

SEATTLE AQUARIUM: Pier 59 is home to Seattle Aquarium, where a recent $41 million overhaul installed an impressive, two-story tank beyond the reception area. The tank stretches 39 feet and often contains a diver who sasses the crowd via an underwater mike. If you are here for feeding time, you will be treated to short talks by naturalists. The aquarium features 366 species of marine life, including river and sea otters, sea lions and a giant Pacific octopus. If you don't have time for a visit, enjoy the "Window on Elliott Bay" that faces the sidewalk along Alaskan Way. Here, silvery schools of a variety of fish share a smooth expanse of sand (www.seattleaquarium.org).

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SEASONAL FARE: If you are visiting Seattle from late April through October, go to Pier 55 for the Elliott Bay Water Taxi. (Year-round service is slated to begin in 2010.) This passenger-only ferry travels to Seacrest Park in the Alki Beach community of West Seattle. (Alki is pronounced with a long "i.") The $3 same day, roundtrip ticket is a great deal. And the area is what the name indicates _ a beach. First-time visitors are amazed to discover a 2.5-mile stretch of sand just 15 minutes from downtown Seattle. Enjoy the fresh air, walk the boardwalk, indulge at the eateries. (The Cactus offered a lively atmosphere and a huge plate of nachos for lunch.) Milder weather draws out joggers, rollerbladers, volleyball players, beachcombers, sunbathers, bicyclists and baby strollers. The recently dedicated Statue of Liberty Park commemorates the spot where Seattle's first European settlers established their homesteads in 1851. Presiding over the park is a recast "Lady Liberty," a statue originally presented to the city of Seattle in 1952.

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© 2009, McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.