Cradle of faiths: Jerusalem sings with history, conflict and unexpected harmony

McClatchy Newspapers (MCT) - "Don't you want to go to Bethlehem?" the taxi driver asks.

Most restaurants are shuttered on this Jewish holiday of Shavuot, and taxis are few. But Avi, a Palestinian Christian, shadows the tourist haunts, hoping for business.

I first catch him on a street, then at the Israel Museum (home to the Dead Sea Scrolls), then at the door of the palatial King David Hotel. Always, his question is the same:

"Don't you want to go to Bethlehem?" It's only a 30-minute drive, he explains.

Hesitation on my part, and a deep breath. Bethlehem lies behind the political and sandstone curtain dividing lands Jewish and Palestinian, on the contentious West Bank.

Finally, a friend and I give in to the magnetism of history, and in the early morning hours, we ride off with Avi toward "the little town" memorialized in the beloved Yuletide hymn.

We're shuttled to a welcoming gift shop, then picked up by a guide and van who will take us the few blocks to the Church of the Nativity, built by Queen Helene, mother of the Roman emperor Constantine, on the spot believed to be Jesus' birthplace.

We scurry to a chapel beneath the sanctuary, a snug space of painted walls and hanging oil lamps said to be the site of that humble manger. White-clad nuns begin to gather, and our guide urges us out before the private service begins. By the time we reach the stone floors of the soaring church above, the rich strains of centuries-old psalms swell through the spare sanctuary.

We feel entirely safe except from the come-ons of the hawkers hoping to lure us to their gift shops.

For Christians, visiting Bethlehem is as essential to a Jerusalem pilgrimage as following the Stations of the Cross or praying in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. For those of other faiths, and those drawn more by history than religion, this sweet town is inextricably bound to Jerusalem's twisting story of hope, conflict, alliances and resentments.

Nearly all of the more than 3 million tourists who came to Israel in 2008 included Jerusalem on their must-see lists. More than in any other place in Israel, past and present coalesce and meld here. The modern city of 700,000-plus sprawls far beyond the millennia-old walls, but in its ancient core, history seems forever at your elbow.

When you read the Bible, Torah or historical texts, you may imagine great distances between the Temple Mount, where Solomon built the physical center of Judaism; Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed in the olive garden; Golgotha, where he hung on a wooden cross; and the stone tomb, where his body was laid to rest.

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But like Bethlehem, these icons incarnate are closer than you expect. Much closer. Some religious sites stand literally atop each other; others are no more than steps apart.

As you wander through the old city's glorious stone warren, you quickly see that proximity is partly to blame for the ceaseless argument over Jerusalem's governance. Like a stone wedged inside your sandal, some discordant view is ever present. Regardless of your beliefs, someone who differs vehemently is likely to be just next door.

Even to a first-time visitor, it's no surprise to find metal detectors and strict security in the passageways separating Old Jerusalem's Arab quarter from the Jewish Western Wall, at the foot of the Temple Mount. And no surprise to find security again at the entrance leading up the Mount to the shimmering gold of the Dome on the Rock sacred to Muslims.

What is a surprise _ at least to a casual visitor _ is the dissent and violence that have plagued the Church of the Holy Sepulchre _ not between Christians and Jews or Christians and Muslims, but between Christians and Christians.

These few square feet of stone, you learn, belong to the Greek Orthodox; these, to the Armenians; these, to the Catholics; these, to the Coptics. In all, six Christian denominations claim jurisdiction in various parts of the massive church, which stands over the ground where Jesus is said to have been crucified, entombed and resurrected.

With six caretakers, squabbling perhaps is inevitable. Over the years, one group or another has barred the door, hidden the key, blocked entrances, refused repairs and brawled so openly that police have been called to restore peace _ even as recently as a few weeks ago. If you believe in the teachings of Jesus, or have simply read them, you may be appalled.

And yet, in this ancient city of squabbles, you may also be struck by a surprising sense of fellowship.

As they have for generations, Arab and Jewish merchants sell goods side-by-side in the Old City market _ scarves by lamps by jewelry by dried teas by rugs by Uzbek embroidery sold by an Arab who says he has converted to Buddhism. Non-Orthodox Jews eat in Arab falafel stands and stop by the cafe atop the Christian Austrian Hospice for a Coke. Arabs, Christian priests and yarmulke-clad Jews pass each other in the snug alleys in what often seems a camaraderie of familiarity, if not shared purposed.

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"You have a sense of worldwide community, regardless of your religion," said Paul Hewerdine, an American Catholic who lives in Israel.

Groups of Christian pilgrims drag wooden crosses up the Via Dolorosa, the path partly through today's Arab quarter, where Jesus is said to have carried his own cross to his crucifixion. A Jewish jeweler points a bewildered traveler to the Crusader-era Church of St. Anne; an Arab bystander points to the obscured entrance.

Strains of a hymn spill from a Christian church; the Hebrew sounds of prayer flow from the Western Wall; a muezzin sounds the Muslim call to prayer. For all of Jerusalem's discord, at times the city sings in harmony.

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IF YOU GO:

TOP SITES: Jerusalem offers so many must-see sites that you will need a week to visit them all. But don't forget to leave plenty of time to simply stroll through the bazaar, quarters and even the roofs of the old city. The Old City measures a little more than a third of a square mile; it is divided into four quarters (Arab, Jewish, Armenian and Christian), though it's mostly culture, rather than walls, that separate them. The old city is closed to cars. Museums and newer attractions lie outside the old walls; all date from 1860 and beyond, when Jerusalem began its urban sprawl.

Note that hours vary _ especially on holidays. Entry to religious sites is free; museums carry an entrance fee. Among the most impressive:

OLD CITY:

_Dome of the Rock: The striking gold-domed shrine enclosing the rock where Mohammed is said to have risen to heaven is closed to non-Muslims, but a stroll around the perimeter of the city's landmark gilt dome is a powerful experience. It dates from around 688 and is one of the world's oldest Muslim structures.

_The Western Wall: The simple stones that form the wall of the Second Temple are one of Judaism's most sacred sites, and any time of the day or night you can see men and women tucking their prayers between the stones. Men and women pray separately _ each has its own entrance _ and though tourist garb is common, women should keep shoulders covered and dress modestly. There are a few beggars, but paying them isn't expected. On Mondays, newly bar mitvahed boys come here for their first Torah reading. The Western Wall sits just below the Temple Mount, home now to the Dome of the Rock, a Muslim site.

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_Church of the Holy Sepulchre: Jammed among the tight alleys of the Old City, the church marking the places where Jesus was crucified, died and buried seems unimpressive from the outside. Inside, it is a beautiful if sometimes disturbing testament both to conviction and religious strife: the church (built by Constantine in 326 A.D.) is divided among six Christian groups, including Greek Orthodox, Coptics, Armenians, Catholics, who have vied over the centuries for control of church. The devout queue to get into the chapel over the tomb where Jesus is said to be buried; the slab where his body was laid after being taken from the cross is often crowded with the faithful.

_Stations of the Cross: The 14 stations of significance on Jesus' day of trial and procession to Golgotha are marked with bronze plaques; they're small and easily missed. The Via Dolorosa (partly on the actual street called Via Dolorosa) is as much a path of symbolism as geography; exact locations of the various sites are sometimes disputed. On Friday afternoons, Franciscan monks lead a procession along the way; others are welcome to join.

_The Upper Room: Also called the Cenacle or Coenaculum, the hall where the Last Supper purportedly was served is tucked on the second floor of buildings around the Church of the Dormition, on Mt. Zion, the highest point in Old Jerusalem. Many believe King David's tomb lies in the same complex; the area can be busy and finding either space requires persistence.

_The Wohl Archeological Museum: Jerusalem is one of the world's great archeological sites, with cities and temples built atop each other. One of the best places to get a sense of this is the Wohl museum, which has preserved a residential quarter of Jerusalem from Herod's time.

BEYOND:

_Bethlehem: Grab your passport _ you'll need it at the West Bank check point _ and snag a taxi or sign up for a half-day tour from Jerusalem (from about $40). Note that the U.S. Department of State (//travel.state.gov) advises against all travel to the West Bank.

_Yad Vashem: The spare stark museum opened in 2005 is an emotional tribute to the victims of the Holocaust; be sure to allot several hours here. Some of the most moving exhibits include a memorial to the 1.5 million children killed during the Holocaust and audio and video tapes of survivors. The prism-like design _ by architect Moshe Safdie _ at times feels suffocating; at others offers light and hope. Entry is free. Tours are offered in English at 11 a.m. daily; an audio-guide is also available for a fee. Closed Friday afternoons and Saturdays. www.yadvashem.org; (011-972) 2-6443769.

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_Israel Museum: The Israel Museum is lauded for its many displays, but the one you won't want to miss is the Shrine of The Book, home to the Dead Sea Scrolls. Don't rush past the explanatory exhibits; in many ways they're more intriguing than the parchment themselves. $9.25 adults, $4.65 ages 5-17. Open daily. www.english.imjnet.org.il; (011-972) 2-6708811.

_Garden of Gethsemane: Caretakers say that some of the gnarled olive trees in the garden near the Old City may have been saplings when Jesus prayed here the night following the Last Supper. The beautiful Church of All Nations and a grotto chapel across the street are most likely open in mornings.

WHERE TO STAY:

_The King David Hotel is the city's showplace. Opened in 1931, it has played host to such luminaries as Bill Clinton, Gregory Peck, Tony Blair and Sting. Come at least for a drink and a wander through the hallowed halls. Doubles from $433; minimum stays required on some dates. www.lhw.com/KingDavidHotel/; 800-745-8883.

Many lesser-priced options abound. Two conveniently located options are:

_Three Arches YMCA, www.ymca3arch.co.il, (011-972-2) 569-2692. Doubles, $195 including breakfast. This popular option books early.

_Austrian Hospice, www.austrianhostpice.com, (011-972-2) 626-5800. This simple lodging is one of the few within the Old City walls. Even if you don't stay here, stop in for a coffee and spectacular rooftop views. Doubles from about $54, including breakfast.

DINING: No, you aren't stuck with gefilte fish and felafel (though the Middle Eastern fare is predictably superb.) International tastes from sushi to linguine are available. Check out the cafes around Ben Yehuda Street in the New City Center. (The best of the gourmet restaurants is in Tel Aviv, but it's a long way to go for dinner.)

GUIDES AND TOURS:

_Yael Shilo, my guide in Jerusalem, tailors tours to the interests of guests, many of them Americans. yaeltour@netvision.net.il; (011-97252) 267-2768.

_David Perlmutter, my guide elsewhere in Israel, also offers specialized tours of Jerusalem. An American, he has lived in Israel for several decades. david@israeladventure.com; (011-972-54) 420-1353.

_Susan Weinberg, president of Wyllys Professional Travel in Coral Gables, has been named a Conde Nast Top Travel Specialist for Israel. 305-442-2008; susanw@wyllys.webmail.com.

SECURITY: Be prepared for security lines and X-ray machines in some buildings and entering the Jewish quarter of the Old City. Armed guards are common, especially during holiday periods. The U.S. Department of State advises against travel to the Gaza Strip, which continues to be plagued by violence, and to the West Bank, where Bethlehem is located. Though violence does occasionally occur in the Old City, tourists typically are not targeted; you may want to avoid the Old City at night.

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INFORMATION: Israel Ministry of Tourism, www.goisrael.com, 888-77-ISRAEL or 212-499-5660. Also useful is the independent Web site, Sacred Destinations, www.sacred-destinations.com.

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Jane Wooldridge: jwooldridge@MiamiHerald.com

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© 2008, The Miami Herald.