Don't miss Honolulu -- it's the heart of Hawaii

McClatchy Newspapers (MCT) - As our plane circled, making its final descent into the Honolulu airport, the woman in the seat next to me asked, "Which of the outer islands are you going on to?"

When I answered that I planned to stay in Honolulu, on Oahu, she looked at me in disbelief and said, "Oh, I never stay there. I just find it too touristy."

Well, everyone has a right to an opinion, and the outer islands are indeed spectacular, but I couldn't help but think that her comment was akin to saying, "Yes, I'm going to France, but I'm skipping Paris because it's too touristy."

In some respects, my seatmate's observations are correct: Waikiki Beach is now known more for its high-rise hotels than its sand; a stroll through the upscale shopping district along Kalakaua Avenue might put one in mind of New York's Fifth Avenue or Beverly Hills' Rodeo Drive, and the city has become a hot spot for restaurants, thanks to the fusion cuisine of chefs Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi and Sam Choy.

But Honolulu is more than the sum of its parts; it is the heart of the island chain, the "Gathering Place," the scene of King Kamehameha's victory over warring chiefs and subsequent uniting of the islands. It is the repository of Hawaii's history, art and culture, and to miss it is, to me, unthinkable.

An ideal place to get an understanding of Hawaii's history and a sense of its vibrant culture is the Bishop Museum. The fourth-largest museum collection in the United States, its 1.2 million cultural artifacts tell the stories of Hawaii and the rest of the Pacific Islands.

Founded in 1889, the museum is Hawaii's answer to India's Taj ­Mahal, a testimony to the power of undying love. From the first time he set eyes on Princess Bernice Pauahi Paki, Charles Reed Bishop knew there would be no one else for him, and although her parents opposed the match (he was a commoner and a haole, or non-Hawaiian), the couple enjoyed 35 years of wedded bliss. After Bernice's death in 1884, her husband set about building a museum to house her personal belongings and to serve as a monument to their love.

Although today's visitors can marvel at an eclectic collection of objects _ elaborate feather fans, plant and animal specimens, and the restoration of a Hale Pili, the only surviving example of an authentic Hawaiian grass hut _ the real centerpiece of the museum will be the restored Hawaiian Hall, slated for completion in 2009. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the hall houses the most sacred treasures of the Hawaiian people and has allowed five generations of children to get a glimpse of their royal heritage. The Hall's exhibits will be embellished with native Hawaiian voices, emphasizing the oral tradition of the Polynesian people, and scientific perspectives that will provide context and reference for the various objects.

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Along with the Bishop Museum, Honolulu's most iconic structure is Iolani Palace, the only royal palace on American soil. The official residence of King David Kalakaua and Queen Kapi'olani from 1882 until the king's death in 1891, and after that, of his sister and successor, Queen Lili'uokalani, until her tragic end, the palace exemplifies the expression "if these walls could talk."

If they could, they would tell visitors happy tales of grand balls in the Throne Room, where elegant guests danced until dawn to the music of the Royal Hawaiian Band, and sad tales of Queen Lili'uokalani held prisoner in an upstairs bedroom after being accused by the new republic's government of conspiring in a plot to restore the monarchy.

As visitors take the grand tour of the palace _ from the carved staircase of native koa wood in the entrance hall to the Throne Room and the upstairs bedrooms _ they might be forgiven for thinking that ghosts from the past were following in their wake.

Two other sites where visitors can experience the essence of early Hawaii are Queen Emma's Summer Palace and the Mission Houses Museum. The summer palace, in the lush Nu'uanu Valley, 5 miles from downtown Honolulu, was home to the consort of King Kamehameha IV. Unlike Iolani, this is not a palatial dwelling but a modest white cottage, and if it looks vaguely New England in style, that's because it is. Built on the East Coast, it was transported around Cape Horn and assembled in its present location in 1848. The grounds, however, are pure Hawaiian _ verdant with kukui (or candlenut), mango and tamarind trees, the fragrant laua'e fern, and the liko-lehua, whose blossoms are a favorite for making leis.

The Mission Houses Museum tells the story not of royalty but of the missionaries who came from New England in the 1820s to bring Christianity to the islanders. The Mission Houses complex consists of three houses from the period, authentically furnished and open for public tours.

Hawaii might revere its history as few states on the mainland do, but the island hasn't ignored its arts heritage either. Venue after venue showcases the art, traditional and contemporary, that makes up what those in the arts like to refer to as "arts with aloha."

Visitors have multiple ­options to choose from:

_The Honolulu Academy of Arts, with a permanent collection of more than 50,000 pieces, including 20,000 works of Asian art, with galleries dedicated to Japan, China, Korea, South and Southeast Asia, Indonesia and the Philippines.

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_The Hawaii State Art Museum, whose primary focus is on works by Hawaii artists.

_The Contemporary Art Museum, whose setting in the lush hills above Honolulu is as artistic as any of the pieces in its collection.

_Perhaps most magnificent of all, Shangri-La, the opulent former home of tobacco heiress Doris Duke, and now a museum of Islamic art.

I had long wanted to see Shangri-La, and it proved to be everything I had imagined. In a spectacular setting overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Diamond Head, the museum is a reflection, as the promotional literature says, "of Doris Duke's passion for collecting and living with Islamic art."

That passion comes to life in the Indian Mughal garden, the playhouse, modeled after a royal pavilion in Iran, and especially in the 14,000-square-foot main house, built around a central courtyard open to the sky and furnished with 3,500 objets d'art from Iran, Morocco, Turkey, Spain, Syria, Egypt and India. My first thought after being shown around the property was that Shangri-La was well named, and my second was that the woman on the plane who thought Honolulu wasn't worth a visit had no idea what she was missing.

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IF YOU GO:

Bishop Museum. 1525 Bernice St. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily except Christmas Day. $14.95 adults, $11.95 seniors and children 4-12, free for children younger than 4. (808) 847-3511. www.bishopmuseum.org.

Iolani Palace. King and Richards Sts. Tours Tue.-Sat.; reservations strongly recommended. (808) 522-0822. www.iolanipalace.org.

Queen Emma's Summer Palace. 2913 Pali Highway. 9 a.m.-4 p.m. daily, except for major holidays. $6 adults, $4 seniors, $1 youth 5-17, free for children younger than 5. (808) 595-3167. www.daughtersofhawaii.org.

Mission Houses Museum. 553 S. King St. (808) 531-0481. www.missionhouses.org.

Honolulu Academy of Arts. 900 S. Beretania St. 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Tue.-Sat., 1-5 p.m. Sun. $7 adults, $4 seniors, free for children 12 and younger; free admission on first Wednesday and third Sunday of month. (808) 532-8700. www.honoluluacademy.org.

Hawaii State Art Museum. 250 S. Hotel St., Second Floor. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tue.-Sat., except for federal holidays. Free admission to galleries. (808) 586-0300. www.hawaii.gov/sfca.

The Contemporary Museum. 2411 Makiki Heights Dr. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tue.-Sat., noon-2:30 p.m. Sun.; closed all major holidays. $5 adults, $3; seniors and students, free for children younger than 12; free admission on third Thursday of each month. (808) 526-1322. www.tcmhi.org.

Shangri-La. Tours originate at Honolulu Academy of Arts (see above). Guided tours Wed.-Sat. with advance reservations. $25; not suggested for children younger than 12. 1-866-385-3849. www.shangrilahawaii.org.

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WHERE TO STAY:

Outrigger Waikiki, 2335 Kalakaua Ave. Right on the beach and within walking distance of Honolulu's major shops. Three restaurants, including the famous Duke's Canoe Club. Rates begin at $389. 1-800-688-7444. www.outrigger.com.

Wyland Waikiki, 400 Royal Hawaiian Ave. First artist-themed hotel in the islands, showcases works of acclaimed marine artist Wyland, including 20 bronze sculptures, four palm trees in a W-shape and flagstone path in shape of whale's tail. Rates begin at $139; numerous specialty packages available. (808) 954-4000. www.WylandWaikiki.com.

Learn more: Contact Oahu Convention and Visitors Bureau. 1-800-464-2924. www.gohawaii.com/oahu.

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© 2008, Lexington Herald-Leader (Lexington, Ky.).