Get in the swim with fresh fish

McClatchy Newspapers (MCT) - People who are learning to cook probably don't think of adding fish to their list of things to accomplish. Even experienced cooks shy away from most species, except maybe salmon and catfish.

But fish fits perfectly into spring menus, and cooking it is not complicated _ just a little tricky.

Shiela and Joe McCord of Winchester, Ky., raise tilapia, and it's available fresh or frozen at their farm on Lexington Road.

"We actually have fish ready in the nursery. We have some two-pounders," Shiela McCord said. A large order from Kentucky State University wiped out most of their supply last week, but if consumers call a day ahead, the tilapia can be cleaned and ready for cooking. The number is (859) 744-4860.

McCord prefers to grill tilapia, but it's also tasty pan-fried. "I throw mine in a little cornmeal mixed with pancake mix, salt and pepper and seafood seasoning, and fry it," she said.

"I was playing around with it this winter and came up with this: Put a stick of butter in an oven-proof dish and place in a 450-degree oven. When the butter gets brown, add the fish and sprinkle with seafood seasoning. Cook for 3 minutes; turn over and cook another 3 minutes."

John Cotton, co-owner of Lexington Seafood, said his customers prefer to grill fish. "I think it's a myth, but people say they don't want to stink up the house by cooking fish," said Cotton, who has lake perch and walleye from Canada, plus halibut, salmon, char and swordfish.

The biggest problems with cooking fish on the grill are fish sticking to the grill and getting seasonings to adhere to the fish. The staff at America's Test Kitchen discovered a fuss-free, foolproof method: Using long-handled tongs, dip paper towels in vegetable oil and brush over the heated grill grate.

Another reason that cooks fear fish is that it can go from undercooked to overcooked in a heartbeat. But you can cook great fish if you use a thermometer and cook to about 135 degrees.

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COOKING METHODS, TIPS

A general rule for baking or broiling fish is 10 minutes per inch of thickness at 400 to 450 degrees, turning the fish halfway through the cooking time. This rule does not apply to microwave cooking or frying.

Fish less than ˝-inch thick does not have to be turned.

If fish is cooked in a sauce or foil, add 5 minutes to the cooking time.

The cooking time for frozen fish should be doubled.

Seafood with low fat content _ including grouper, flounder and tilapia _ should be basted when it's cooked with a dry heat method, such as broiling or baking.

When marinade is needed for basting, set aside a portion of the marinade before adding raw seafood.

Fish is done when the flesh becomes opaque and flakes easily at the thickest part.

Most fish will continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes after being removed from the heat, so plan for this in the cooking time.

BROILING

Place fish, 1 inch thick or less, 2 to 4 inches from the source of heat.

Fish thicker than 1 inch should be placed 5 to 6 inches away from the heat.

PAN-FRY OR SAUTE

Fry fillets in 1/8 inch of oil for 3 to 6 minutes a side, or until it's golden and fish flakes easily.

Thickness of fillets will determine the cooking time.

DEEP-FRYING

Place fish in single layer in deep kettle or saucepan, and cook in enough fat or oil to cover and permit fish to move freely; do not crowd.

Generally, the temperature of the oil should be 365 degrees.

Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown.

When cooking multiple batches, always allow the temperature of the oil to return to 365 degrees before adding more fish.

GRILLING

Preheat gas or electric grill. Start the fire about 30 minutes before cooking when using a charcoal grill.

Fish is best grilled over a moderately hot fire and on a surface that has been well oiled.

When coals are white-hot, spread out in a single layer. Adjust the grill height to 4 to 6 inches above the heat.

Use indirect heat for a whole fish.

Firm-textured fish _ grouper, shark, swordfish and amberjack _ grill well.

When cooking kebabs, put foods with the same cooking time together, as seafood cooks quickly.

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BUYING, STORAGE AND HANDLING TIPS FOR FISH

The leading cause of food-borne illnesses is improper food handling, preparation and storage. Follow these tips to ensure good seafood quality and safety. Remember: Fresh fish of all kinds should have a mild, fresh aroma similar to the ocean. A stronger smell is not acceptable.

When shopping:

_Buy seafood only from reputable, commercial sources.

_When you are shopping for food, buy seafood last and keep it cold. Ask your grocer to pack your seafood on ice for the trip home.

Fresh whole fish should have:

_A shiny surface with tightly adhering scales.

_Gills that are deep red or pink, free of slime, mucus and an off odor.

_A clean shiny belly cavity with no cuts or protruding bones.

Fresh steaks, fillets and loins should have:

_A translucent look.

_Flesh that is firm and not separating.

_No discoloration.

_Packaging that keeps them from being bent in an unnatural position.

Storage at home:

_Store seafood in leak-proof containers for no longer than two days in the coldest part of your refrigerator at 32 to 38 degrees, or three to 10 months frozen. Shelf life will vary depending on product form and species.

Preparation at home:

_Thaw seafood in the refrigerator, never at room ­temperature. To use frozen seafood immediately, thaw under cold running water (1 to 2 hours per pound) or use the microwave defrost setting.

_Prevent cross-contamination between raw seafood and other food products.

_Wash your hands with hot soapy water before and after handling raw seafood.

_Do not drip seafood juices on counters, utensils or other foods.

_Thoroughly wash containers that held raw seafood before using them again.

_Always marinate seafood in the refrigerator, never at room temperature. Discard the marinade after use.

_When in doubt, throw it out. Do not taste a food if you even suspect that it might be spoiled.

Source: Florida Department of Agriculture

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PAN-GRILLED GROUPER WITH GREEN OLIVE CREAM SAUCE

4 6-ounce grouper fillets

Kosher salt to taste

Fresh ground black pepper, to taste

˝ cup rice flour

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Ľ cup white wine

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 jalapeno pepper, finely chopped

1 tablespoon heavy cream

˝ cup unsalted butter, cubed and chilled

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Ľ cup green olives, sliced

3 tablespoons capers, drained

4 strips cooked bacon, crumbled

Season fillets with salt and pepper and dredge in rice flour. Heat oil and butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. When butter foams, add fillets; cook 4 minutes a side or until opaque in center. Transfer fillets to a platter and keep warm. To make sauce, add wine, shallot and jalapeno pepper to saucepan; bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until reduced by half. Add cream, and cook sauce until thickened. Reduce heat to low; add cubed butter a little at a time, whisking until blended into a smooth sauce. Stir in lemon juice, parsley, olives, capers and bacon. Spoon sauce over fillets and serve. Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 605 calories, 42 g. fat, 148 mg. cholesterol, 18 g. carbohydrates, 37 g. protein.

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ONION-CRUSTED GROUPER WITH ROASTED CORN AND PEPPERS

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 cup red bell pepper, chopped

1 cup green bell pepper, chopped

2 cups fresh corn kernels

1 cup onion, diced

1 teaspoon salt, divided

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided

1 teaspoon dried thyme, divided

4 6-ounce grouper fillets

˝ cup french-fried onions, crushed

Heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine 1 tablespoon olive oil with red and green bell peppers, corn, onion and ˝ teaspoon each of salt, pepper and thyme in a large ovenproof pan. Roast mixture in oven about 12 minutes, until corn and peppers start to brown, stirring twice. Coat fillets with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining salt, pepper and thyme. Top with crushed onion rings. Remove roasting pan from oven; spread corn-and-pepper mixture to sides of the pan. Place fillets in middle of pan; return to oven and cook 10 minutes, until fillets are opaque in center. Serve fillets on a bed of roasted vegetables. Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 481 calories, 23 g. fat, 62 mg. cholesterol, 30 g. carbohydrate.

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PAN-GRILLED RED SNAPPER WITH AVOCADO-STRAWBERRY SALSA

1 jalapeno pepper, finely chopped

1 ripe avocado, diced

2 cups strawberries, finely chopped

Ľ cup red onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

Ľ teaspoon sugar

Sea salt, to taste

4 6-ounce red snapper fillets

1 tablespoon olive oil

1˝ tablespoons fresh lime zest

Salt and pepper to taste

Stir jalapeno, avocado, strawberries, onion, cilantro, lime juice, sugar and sea salt together in a bowl. Cover and set aside.

Note: Salsa may be made several hours ahead and chilled. When ­making ahead, add sugar, salt and avocado when ready to serve.

Preheat stovetop grill pan over high heat. Pat fillets dry, then brush both sides with oil; sprinkle with lime zest, salt and pepper. Lay fillets on grill pan, skin side down, and cook 4 to 5 minutes on each side, turning once, until cooked through. Transfer fillets skin side up to individual serving plates. Carefully remove skin; top with avocado-strawberry salsa. Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per ­serving: 440 calories, 13 g. fat, 63 mg. cholesterol, 40 g. ­carbohydrates, 37 g. protein.

From Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services

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TILAPIA WITH CUCUMBER-RADISH RELISH

2/3 cup chopped, seeded cucumber

˝ cup chopped radishes

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar

Ľ teaspoon dried tarragon

Pinch sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 6-ounce tilapia fillets

2 tablespoons margarine

Combine first seven ingredients in small bowl; mix well. Let stand at room temperature while ­preparing fish. Saute tilapia in margarine in a large skillet over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until fish just begins to flake easily when tested with a fork. Transfer to serving plates. Spoon cucumber mixture over each serving.

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FROM NATIONAL FISHERIES INSTITUTE

Fresh tuna club

4 6-ounce portions fresh tuna

1 teaspoon sea salt

Black pepper, to taste

12 slices sourdough bread

Ľ cup softened butter

Ľ cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 teaspoons pure olive oil or canola oil

2 cups arugula

2 vine-ripened tomatoes, sliced

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons basil mayonnaise (see recipe below)

Season tuna with salt and pepper. Brush bread with softened butter and sprinkle with Parmesan. Toast bread in oven under broiler, remove and hold warm. Heat olive oil in non-stick skillet over medium high heat. Place tuna in pan and sear about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. This should produce a medium rare piece of tuna; simply increase cooking time for a different doneness. Assemble sandwich in the following manner: 1 slice bread topped with arugula and two slices tomato; drizzle with small amount of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Top with another slice of bread. Brush with basil mayonnaise. Top with two slices tomato and piece of tuna. Top with third slice bread.

To make basil mayonnaise: Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, Ľ cup sour cream and 1 tablespoon pesto. Season to taste with salt. Store in refrigerator.

From Red Lobster

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© 2009, Lexington Herald-Leader (Lexington, Ky.).