Sizzling savings: Skewered by the economy, cooks budget bucks wisely to allow for a few splurges

Milwaukee Journal Sentinel (MCT) - Not so long ago, tasteful, trendy home cooking was practically synonymous with upscale ingredients, from sushi-grade tuna for grilling to the fanciest imported cocoa for baking.

Then the nation took an economic nosedive, and things changed. Almost overnight, it seemed, words like budget and inexpensive started appearing on the covers of high-end food magazines.

"I am absolutely more cognizant of the money I spend on food lately," says Laura Werlin, the author of "Laura Werlin's Cheese Essentials," "The All American Cheese and Wine Book" and other volumes. "I'm a great fan of comfort food, and how can food be comforting if you feel you're spending too much for it?"

Still, that doesn't mean that lovers of aged cheddar need to trade down to processed cheese slices. There are ways to keep register receipts in line without sacrificing quality.

The trick, say Werlin and other foodies interviewed for this story, is choosing when to scrimp and when to splurge.

Take olive oil _ and if it's fine, extra-virgin olive oil you're taking, be prepared to pay a premium for it.

But if you're judicious about using it, even pricey olive oil doesn't have to break the bank.

At Milwaukee Area Technical College, culinary instructor John Reiss often has students saute meat, fish or vegetables in a relatively inexpensive vegetable oil, then finish the cooked dish off with a drizzle of good-quality olive oil. The oil's flavor changes when it's heated, he explains, so adding the good stuff later in the process makes sense.

"That way, you get the taste, but not the expense," he says.

LESS COST, BETTER TASTE

Some other budget-minded substitutions actually improve flavor. Chicken thighs aren't just cheaper than breasts, Reiss says, they're tastier. And if you learn to cut up a whole bird rather than paying extra for skinless, boneless chicken parts, you'll get maximum bang for your poultry buck, he adds.

In the same vein, save grilled steaks and chops for special occasions and turn to humbler cuts of meat _ an inexpensive chuck roast, for example _ that require braising or stewing. Get the crockpot out of the attic, Reiss counsels, or learn time-honored stovetop or oven techniques.

The Culinary Institute of America's David Kamen agrees.

"We've gotten very spoiled by convenience foods," says Kamen, a professor of culinary arts at the professional cooking school in Hyde Park, N.Y. "But you have to ask yourself, what are you doing with the time you're saving?"

Particularly for those who've been laid off or had their hours cut back, time spent baking from scratch or peeling whole carrots rather than buying the ready-to-eat kind pays off in economy and freshness, he suggests.

At home, one indulgence Kamen's family no longer splurges on is cold cuts.

"If they're in the refrigerator, I'll eat them," he says. "It makes for a very expensive snack."

Even cheaper nibbles such as potato chips cost more than they're really worth, Kamen observes.

"Why not just pop some popcorn instead?" suggests MATC's Reiss. "And forget the microwave kind _ the old-fashioned kind costs less."

Madison, Wis., author Terese Allen, too, says a small investment of time can make the most of inexpensive ingredients.

"I've been doing a lot with eggs," says Allen, whose books include "The Flavor of Wisconsin" and "Fresh Market Wisconsin." "I love noodle frittatas and main-dish bread puddings," which are similar to dessert bread puddings except that they're savory, not sweet.

"I'll also scramble some eggs and cut them into strips to use along with vegetables for spring rolls," she adds. Ready-made spring roll or wonton wrappers are one convenience product that's worth the cost, according to Allen.

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SPLURGE LOCALLY

When she does splurge on meat, Allen likes to offer what she calls a "stimulus package" to local farmers who practice sustainable agriculture. One of her favorites is Cherokee Bison Farms near Colby, Wis.

In addition to lean, grass-fed buffalo meat, Cherokee has also started selling its own organic sunflower oil, as has Driftless Organics in Soldiers Grove, Wis. Though these Wisconsin products cost about as much as good olive oil, Allen says they're worth it.

"They have this wonderful, really distinctive nutty flavor," she says. "And (small Wisconsin farms) are something I feel good about supporting."

Locally grown vegetables are another enthusiasm of Allen's, one that's generally fresher and sometimes cheaper than produce from gigantic farms in warmer places. Even in cold weather, some Wisconsin farmers grow spinach and other greens in plastic-shrouded hoop houses, she notes.

Cheese expert Werlin, who lives in San Francisco, is another cheerleader for Wisconsin products.

"A little bit of good cheese goes a long way," she says. "And you have so many wonderful cheeses there."

Although the state's artisanal cheeses aren't inexpensive, they usually cost less than European imports. Werlin swears by such varieties as Sartori Bellavitano from Antigo, Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Uplands Cheese of Dodgeville, Wis., and the premium flavored Goudas of Holland's Family Cheese near Thorp, Wis.

When it comes to the classic cheese accompaniment, she has a more surprising recommendation.

"As funny as this sounds, I like Target's Wine Cubes," she says, referring to the store's 1.5- and 3-liter boxes, which come in eight varieties. "A lot of people turn up their noses at boxed wines, but these are really very good."

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REAL VANILLA OR IMITATION?

Professional bakers also have their scrimping secrets. One of them is imitation vanilla extract, at a fraction of what pure vanilla costs.

"There was a famous blind taste test where people actually preferred the taste of imitation vanilla to pure vanilla extract," says Shirley Corriher, the Atlanta-based cookbook author of "BakeWise" and "CookWise."

Corriher is referring to a test done several years ago by the respected Cook's Illustrated magazine, an experiment that was updated this year.

This time the editors found that, while real vanilla tasted better in puddings and other cold desserts, there was virtually no difference between a good imitation and the real thing in cookies and cakes.

"A lot of (baking experts) would never, ever admit to using imitation vanilla," Corriher says with a laugh. "I was stunned by that taste test myself."

Debra Socha, a baking instructor at MATC, uses expensive whole vanilla beans _ which impart an even more intense flavor than pure extract _ in desserts where the vanilla flavor is central, such as custards.

For baking, however, particularly where the vanilla is merely used to enhance another flavor, she recommends going with the far cheaper imitation extract.

With chocolate, the issue is what foodies call "mouth-feel," or texture. For ganache or other frostings, says Socha, top-quality chocolate is worth the extra cost _ but for the cake under it, don't be afraid to use Nestle or Hershey.

When it comes to shortening, both Corriher and Socha are unapologetic butter lovers, and hang the expense.

"Some cookies actually have a better texture with butter-flavored (vegetable) shortening, but for taste, there's just nothing that compares to butter," Corriher says fondly.

Even for home use, Socha, a certified master baker, buys butter by the 36-pound case from a small farm not far from where she lives.

"It keeps practically forever in the freezer," she says.

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This recipe is adapted from one at www.laurawerlin.com. Both this soup and the Chicken Piccata call for high-quality cheeses.

CUCUMBER SOUP WITH MINT PESTO AND FETA CHEESE

Makes 4 servings

Pesto (see recipe)

3 medium cucumbers (about 2 pounds) peeled, seeded and cut into chunks

1 2/3 cups sour cream

1/3 cup plain yogurt 1 medium jalapeno pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 ˝ tablespoons lime juice (about ˝ lime)

Kosher salt

3 ounces high-quality feta cheese, crumbled

Prepare pesto and set aside.

In the bowl of a food processor or blender, combine all the remaining ingredients except the salt and cheese. (If using a blender, cut the cucumber into Ľ-inch dice before blending). Process until smooth and creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add a small amount of salt. Process again just until salt is mixed in. Refrigerate.

When ready to serve, pour soup into bowls or cups. Place a large dollop of pesto in the center of each serving and sprinkle with a generous portion of cheese.

Pesto:

Makes about 2/3 cup

3 cups mint leaves (about ˝ a large bunch)

2 tablespoons slivered almonds, lightly toasted

˝ small (about 6 ounces) red onion, coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 ˝ tablespoons lime juice (about ˝ lime)

3 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt to taste

Combine all ingredients except salt in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Add just enough salt to bring out the flavors in the pesto. (Don't forget that the soup and the cheese have salt.) Mix and taste. Process again. You will still have mint flecks, but the pesto should be fairly runny.

Note: Any leftover pesto can be covered and refrigerated for about a week or frozen for about a month.

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This recipe is also adapted from www.laurawerlin.com.

CHICKEN GOAT CHEESE PICCATA

Makes 4 servings

4 boneless chicken thighs with skin, about 1 ľ pounds (see note)

2 teaspoons herbes de Provence (or use chopped fresh thyme or ľ tablespoon dried)

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

18 ounces Bucheron or other soft-ripened goat cheese such as goat Brie or Humboldt, cut in 16 slices (or use fresh goat cheese) (divided) 8 tablespoons olive oil (divided)

2 tablespoons plus Ľ cup fresh lemon juice (divided)

2 tablespoons drained capers

4 slices bacon, coarsely chopped

1 small red onion (about 6 ounces), cut lengthwise into 1/8-inch slices

˝ pound spinach leaves, washed and dried well

2 medium tomatoes (about ľ pound), coarsely chopped

Place the chicken, skin side up, in a glass pan just large enough to hold it. Loosen skin of chicken.

In a small bowl, mix together the herbes de Provence, lemon zest, ˝ teaspoon salt and pepper. Carefully slip the herb mixture under the skin of each thigh, distributing it as evenly as possible.

Using half the cheese, place 2 slices of cheese side by side under skin of each piece of poultry. Secure skin with 1 or 2 toothpicks to prevent cheese from running out.

In a small bowl make a marinade by combining 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Pour over the chicken. Season both sides of thighs with salt and pepper to taste. Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or in refrigerator for up to 2 hours.

When ready to cook, place an oven rack 6 inches below the heating element and preheat the broiler.

Place the chicken in a shallow broiler-proof pan, skin side down. Broil the chicken until it is slightly dark around the edges, tan in the center, and feels firm yet slightly springy to the touch, 8 to 10 minutes. Turn the chicken and cook until the skin is very crisp and the chicken feels firm but still gives slightly when touched, about 8 minutes. (Note: If using chicken breasts, cook 1 minute less on each side so they will not dry out).

To make a dressing: Combine remaining 6 tablespoons olive oil and Ľ cup lemon juice. Add capers and 1 teaspoon salt. Set aside. (Can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated.)

To assemble: In a medium-sized skillet over medium heat, cook bacon until crisp. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.

Drain all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat from the pan. Add onion slices and cook over medium heat until the onions are limp, about 5 minutes. Add a touch of salt, and set aside.

Place bacon mixture and spinach in a large bowl. Toss with reserved dressing.

Put one piece of chicken on each of 4 dinner plates. Distribute spinach salad on top of each thigh, and sprinkle with chopped tomato. Lightly salt tomatoes. Place remaining slices of cheese on top of tomatoes, give a couple of twists of freshly ground pepper, and serve.

Note: If you cannot find boneless chicken thighs, ask your butcher to remove bones for you. Boneless chicken breasts with skin on can be substituted for thighs.

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This tabbouleh recipe is adapted from Terese Allen's recipe at the Organic Valley Web site, www.organicvalley.coop.

SPRING TABBOULEH WITH SORREL AND MINT

Makes 6 servings

1 cup medium bulgur

2 cups boiling water

2 cups coarsely chopped fresh wild sheep sorrel, garden sorrel, or flat leaf parsley

˝ to 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint

3 to 4 medium chopped tomatoes, or 1 cup sliced radishes 1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, chopped

˝ cup finely diced red onion (or 1 cup chopped green onions)

Juice of 1 lemon

3 to 4 tablespoons sunflower or olive oil (see note)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces Organic Valley Feta Cheese Crumbles or other organic feta cheese

Place bulgur in a medium bowl. Stir in the boiling water, cover and let stand 30 to 45 minutes. Gently squeeze out and discard any remaining liquid from the bulgur.

Transfer bulgur to a large serving bowl and gently toss in sorrel, mint, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, lemon juice and oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with cheese and serve at room temperature.

Note: If using sunflower oil, Allen recommends splurging on Driftless Organics or Cherokee Sun brands, which are locally produced.

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This risotto is from Terese Allen's Web site, www.tereseallen.com.

MUSHROOM RISOTTO

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 ounce dried mushrooms (porcini, morel, shiitake, etc.)

1 ˝ cups hot water

6 to 7 cups chicken or mushroom broth

4 tablespoons olive oil

˝ cup minced onion 6 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced (Portobello, white, brown, etc.)

˝ cup white wine

2 cups uncooked arborio rice

˝ cup (or more) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, or to taste (divided)

Salt and pepper to taste

Soak dried mushrooms in 1˝ cups hot water 10 minutes. Strain liquid into a large saucepan; add broth, heat and keep at low simmer until needed.

Slice soaked mushrooms.

Heat oil in large, heavy saucepan. Add onion; saute over medium-low 3 to 4 minutes. Raise heat to medium-high, add fresh mushrooms and saute until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add soaked mushrooms and wine; stir over high heat until most moisture evaporates, about 5 to 6 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium-low; stir in rice. Add 1 to 2 cups of simmering stock; stir constantly until most is absorbed. Continue to add stock ˝ to 1 cup at a time and stir until mostly absorbed. Risotto is done when rice is barely tender (al dente) and mixture is creamy and thick; about 30 minutes. (Turn heat down if rice is absorbing liquid too quickly.) When all the rice has been incorporated, stir in half the cheese and add salt and pepper. Serve with additional cheese.

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This souffle adapted from Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking (40th Anniversary Edition)." This is one of those cases when you'd want to use real vanilla extract _ or go whole hog and use the bean.

VANILLA SOUFFLE

Makes 4 servings

1 ˝ teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons butter, room temperature (divided)

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar (divided)

3 tablespoons sifted flour ľ cup milk (divided)

4 whole eggs and 1 egg white

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

Powdered sugar for garnish

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Coat entire inside of a 6-cup souffle mold that is 3˝ inches deep with the 1˝ teaspoons butter. Roll about 1 tablespoon sugar around in pan to evenly coat sides and bottom. Knock out excess.

Beat flour in a saucepan with 2 to 3 tablespoons milk until well blended. Beat in remaining milk. Add 1/3 cup sugar. Beat well.

Stir mixture over moderately high heat until it thickens and comes to a boil. Boil, stirring, 30 seconds. Sauce will be very thick. Remove from heat and beat 2 minutes to cool slightly.

Separate one egg, dropping white into a bowl and yolk into center of sauce. Beat yolk into sauce with a wire whip. Continue separating eggs in this manner, beating yolks into sauce, one at a time.

Beat in 1 tablespoon of butter. Clean sauce off sides of pan with rubber scraper. Dot top of sauce with remaining 1 tablespoon butter to prevent a skin from forming on surface.

Beat 5 egg whites with salt until soft peaks form. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Beat in vanilla.

Stir one-fourth of beaten whites into yolk mixture. Delicately fold in remaining whites.

Turn souffle mixture into prepared souffle mold, leaving 1Ľ inches headspace. Do not overfill or souffle will spill over as it rises.

Place souffle mold in center rack of preheated oven and bake 20 minutes.

When center has begun to puff and brown, quickly sprinkle top with powdered sugar.

Return to oven and bake another 10 to 15 minutes or until top of souffle is nicely browned and a straw or long, thin knife plunged into souffle through side of puff comes out clean.

Serve immediately.

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© 2009, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel.