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Seder sides: Dietary restrictions make Passover meals a challenge

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Detroit Free Press (MCT) - Passover comes with a lot of tradition, and when one of those traditions is the food, it's an annual challenge to put a creative spin on recipes.

Highlights

By Susan Selasky
McClatchy Newspapers (www.mctdirect.com)
3/30/2009 (1 decade ago)

Published in Home & Food

At Passover, which this year begins April 8 at sundown, observant Jews find it even harder because of certain food restrictions. They are required to abstain from all leavening products and flour as well as a host of other foods.

The spring celebration of Passover brings family and friends together for remembrance and reflection of when Jews fled slavery in Egypt. A Passover Seder is held and the story of the Exodus is told through a reading of the Haggadah, a Jewish religious text that sets out the order of the Passover Seder. Families such as Gail Mintz's of West Bloomfield, Mich., gear their reading toward children, using finger puppets to tell parts of the story. Passover continues for another eight days, as do the dietary restrictions.

Gefilte fish, brisket, chicken soup with matzo balls and roast chicken are often mainstays. There are also a plethora of side dishes to which many cooks crave bringing new inspiration.

"Jewish women are always looking for new recipes to try," says Heidi Budaj, director of Jewish Life and Learning at the Jewish Community Center in West Bloomfield, Mich. "It's a very intimidating holiday because of the dietary restrictions."

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PORTABELLA STACKS WITH HONEY-BALSAMIC KETCHUP

Serves: 8 / Preparation time: 10 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

These crunchy mushrooms with their sweet-and-sour dipping sauce are a great way to start a meal.

MUSHROOMS

Vegetable oil for frying

4 very large portabella mushroom caps

1 cup matzo meal

ľ cup matzo farfel

2 teaspoons imitation mustard

˝ teaspoon fine sea salt

Ľ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 large eggs

6-inch skewers

HONEY-BALSAMIC KETCHUP

˝ cup ketchup

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

˝ teaspoon fine sea salt

Ľ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Ľ teaspoon pareve chicken consomme powder

Fill a medium pot halfway with oil. Heat oil over medium heat, maintaining it at 375-400 degrees.

Scoop out and discard the gills from the bottom of each portabella cap. Peel the skin from each cap and discard. Slice each cap into 8-12 triangles, depending on size of mushroom. Set aside.

Place matzo meal, matzo farfel, mustard, salt and pepper into a shallow container. Using your fingers, toss to mix.

Place eggs into a second shallow container and whisk lightly.

Dip each porta bella triangle into the eggs and then into matzo-meal mixture, patting it to coat well.

When all the mushrooms are coated, carefully lower one into the hot oil (it should gently bubble but not burn), and cook to a golden brown. If the oil is not hot enough, the mushrooms will soak it up ; if it is too hot, the mushrooms will burn. Fry the mushrooms in batches, about 2 minutes per side, until golden-brown. Remove and allow them to drain on paper towels.

Slide 3-4 mushroom triangles on each skewer.

To prepare the Honey-Balsamic Ketchup, mix all the ingredients in a small bowl. Serve with the mushroom skewers.

From "Passover by Design" by Susie Fishbein (Mesorah Publications, $34.99).

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

226 calories (36 percent from fat ), 9 grams fat (1 gram sat. fat ), 31 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams protein, 539 mg sodium, 79 mg cholesterol, 21 mg calcium, 2 grams fiber.

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MATZO PRIMAVERA

Serves: 6 / Preparation time: 20 minutes

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

3 unsalted, plain, matzo sheets

1 cup vegetable or chicken stock

Ľ cup olive oil

6 fresh basil leaves, minced

2 cloves fresh garlic, minced

Ľ teaspoon fine sea salt

Ľ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 zucchini, unpeeled, sliced into Ľ-inch rounds

2 yellow squash, unpeeled, sliced into Ľ-inch rounds

2 to 3 Asian or Japanese eggplants, unpeeled, sliced into Ľ-inch rounds

6 Roma tomatoes, sliced into Ľ-inch rounds

ľ teaspoon pareve chicken or vegetable consomme powder

Finely chopped fresh basil, for garnish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Spray a 9-by-9-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Set aside.

Place matzo sheets in 1 or 2 jelly roll or other shallow pans large enough to hold them in a single layer. Pour stock over matzoth just to cover and allow to stand for several minutes until pliable but not mushy.

Meanwhile, pour Ľ cup olive oil into another jelly roll pan. Add basil, garlic, salt and pepper. Place sliced zucchini, squash, eggplant and tomato slices into oil mixture. Turn each piece to coat.

Place in the oven and roast for about 15 minutes until the vegetables are slightly soft.

Remove from pan.

In the prepared 9-inch pan, arrange a single layer of overlapping zucchini. Place 1 matzo on top of it. Sprinkle with Ľ teaspoon consomme powder. Top with a single layer of overlapping squash slices. Layer a second matzo board. Sprinkle Ľ teaspoon consomme powder. Top with a layer of overlapping eggplant, followed by third matzo and another Ľ teaspoon of consomme powder. Top with a final layer of overlapping tomato slices. Drizzle any oil and seasonings remaining on the baking sheet over the tomatoes. Bake uncovered for 20 minutes. Garnish with chopped basil arranged in narrow rows.

From "Passover by Design" by Susie Fishbein (Mesorah Publications, $34.99).

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

325 calories (41 percent from fat ), 15 grams fat (2 grams sat. fat ), 45 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams protein, 587 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 71 mg calcium, 13 grams fiber .

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PASSOVER CHOCOLATE MATZO TORTE

Makes: 2 tortes (12 slices each) / Preparation time: 15 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes (plus chilling time)

5 eggs

˝ pound bittersweet chocolate

˝ pound unsalted margarine

1 cup sugar

12 whole plain matzo sheets

˝ cup favorite ground nuts

In the top of a double boiler over simmering water, beat the eggs well. Add the chocolate, margarine and sugar. Cook over low to medium heat until well mixed and smooth. Remove from stove.

Line a sided baking sheet with wax paper. Place 2 matzo sheets side by side. Spread the chocolate mixture on top of each matzo until it covers. A pastry brush works well. Place a second sheet of matzo on top of the first. Repeat with the remaining matzo and chocolate. You may need more matzo. Brush the sides of the matzo with the chocolate. Place a thicker layer of chocolate on the last layer. Sprinkle the ground nuts on top of each torte.

Chill overnight and serve, cutting with a serrated knife.

Submitted by Gail Mintz, West Bloomfield, Mich.

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

235 calories (55 percent from fat ), 14 grams fat (4 grams sat. fat ), 25 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams protein, 15 mg sodium, 44 mg cholesterol, 11 mg calcium, 1 gram fiber.

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SHIITAKE MUSHROOM MATZO BALLS

Makes: 30 (golf ball-size matzo balls) / Preparation time: 20 minutes

Total time: 1 hour (plus chilling time)

Kosher-for-Passover baking soda is now available; it can be certified kosher because it's a chemical rather than a natural (yeast-based) leavening agent. If, like many observant Jews, you feel uncomfortable using baking powder during Passover, it may be omitted.

Ľ cup melted chicken fat (schmaltz) or vegetable oil

4 green onions, including white parts and half the green parts, thinly sliced

4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded, finely chopped (1 to 1 ˝ cups)

1 envelope (about ˝ cup) matzo ball mix

1 ˝ cup matzo meal

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover baking powder

2 tablespoons club soda, chicken broth or water

In a medium saucepan, heat the chicken fat over medium heat. Add the green onions and mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms are soft, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the matzo ball mix with the matzo meal. Add the eggs and mix well. Stir in the mushroom mixture (with the oil), parsley, salt, white pepper and baking powder, if using. Add the club soda and mix thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and lightly salt it.

Form the mixture into balls that are about the size of a golf ball, wetting your hands if necessary to keep them from sticking. Drop the matzo balls into the boiling water and cook, covered, at a slow, steady boil (not a hard boil) until tender, about 30 minutes (depending on the size of the balls).

Carefully remove the matzo balls with a slotted spoon and serve in soup.

Adapted from "Cooking Jewish: 532 Great Recipes From the Rabinowitz Family" by Judy Bart Kancigor (Workman Publishing, $19.95).

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

Analysis per 1 matzo ball.

67 calories (34 percent from fat ), 3 grams fat (0 grams sat. fat ), 10 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams protein, 158 mg sodium, 28 mg cholesterol, 20 mg calcium, 1 gram fiber .

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SPICY POTATO STACKS

Makes: 8 stacks

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Use potatoes similar in diameter so they stack nicely.

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon paprika

˝ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

˝ teaspoon fine sea salt

˝ teaspoon cayenne pepper to taste

2 large Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled, sliced into ˝-inch slices, ends discarded

2 large red potatoes, unpeeled, sliced into ˝-inch slices, ends discarded

2 sweet potatoes, peeled, sliced into ˝-inch slices, ends discarded

˝ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fresh rosemary sprigs

Fine sea salt

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a sided baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small bowl, mix together the garlic and onion powder, paprika, black pepper, salt and cayenne pepper.

Place all the sliced potatoes into a large mixing bowl.

Pour the oil over the potatoes. Toss to coat. Sprinkle in the spice blend. Toss to coat well. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer on prepared baking sheet. Roast the potatoes, uncovered, for 20 minutes.

Season with a sprinkle of salt.

Make layered stacks using the three kinds of potatoes. Stick a rosemary skewer through the top to secure each stack. Serve hot.

From "Passover by Design" by Susie Fishbein (Mesorah Publications, $34.99).

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

Analysis per 1 potato stack.

225 calories (28 percent from fat ), 7 grams fat (1 gram sat. fat ), 37 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams protein, 175 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 31 mg calcium, 4 grams fiber .

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© 2009, Detroit Free Press.

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