A taste of the wild life: Hunters, anglers find winter is the perfect time to enjoy their past success, in all kinds of dishes

Milwaukee Journal Sentinel (MCT) - Outdoor enthusiasts do lots of fishing in the freezer this time of year.

And if they're lucky, hunters and anglers also have a stash of good recipes to tide them over until the next season opens.

Those tired of the same old venison chili and pan-fried fish may want to try Venison Steak Bruschetta with Gorgonzola and Sauteed Sweet Peppers or Creole Bluegill Burgers.

Hauling wild game or fish out of the freezer in winter _ and turning it into a memorable meal _ is as much a part of the ritual as the hunt or fishing trip itself. Plenty of hunters and anglers enjoy reliving the glory at the dinner table, and getting together with friends for a wild-game feed or fish fry featuring their own haul.

"A lot of meat comes out in the winter," said hunter John Hillery of Pewaukee, Wis.

Hillery's friend, Dan Heger of Pewaukee, is hosting 30 to 60 buddies and their spouses for his ninth annual wild-game feed March 21.

Everyone will bring a wild-game dish to pass.

Rabbit, pheasant, venison, duck, goose, turkey, black bear, caribou (from Canada) and rattlesnake (from Texas) have all found their way to the table, along with Dall sheep meatballs (from Alaska or the Rocky Mountains), snapping turtle soup, fried walleye and pickled Northern Pike.

Rattlesnake is probably the most unusual potluck offering so far, Heger said.

"I think it was baked. It was in a long strip and it had the texture of string cheese. It pulled apart in long pieces."

Pickled venison heart, sliced on the plate, also ranks right up there, Heger said.

About halfway through the meal, the game enthusiasts will pause to vote for their favorite dish. Heger said he hopes to put together a cookbook of Wild Game Feed recipes for the 10th annual gathering next year.

This year, Heger expects to contribute a dish with goose inspired by his ailing hunting buddy and golden retriever, Dunkin (like the doughnuts).

"He and I spent hours together last year hunting geese," Heger said, noting that his companion may not live to see another wild-game feed. "If he doesn't make it to the feed, I'll make a toast in his honor."

The event usually inspires reminiscences of past hunts and anticipation of the next one, Heger said.

But table talk goes beyond hunting and fishing stories. The friends also try to catch up on other important things, like family vacations.

Heger picks March for the meal because there's not much else going on then. Ice fishing shanties come off the lakes by mid-month.

During the hunt, Heger shoots only what he can eat. And he seems to eat only what he shoots.

"I have not bought beef in well over 15 years," he said. One recent night, he prepared goose. The previous night, he'd made Italian venison burgers.

Tim Leonardelli of New Berlin doesn't just cook what he catches or shoots, he teaches cooking to his condo neighbors in Fort Myers, Fla., his winter home. That is, when he isn't out fishing in the Gulf of Mexico.

Leonardelli, a colon cancer survivor, put "enjoying life" at the top of his priority list. For him, that means hunting, fishing, cooking and also painting wildlife.

"Most of the people who hunt or fish enjoy cooking (the meat or fish), or having someone cook it for them," Leonardelli said. Enjoying a meal enables you to "relive the moment you were out there hunting or fishing."

It's more fun to invite friends over for a homemade fish fry than to go to a hall or restaurant, he said. "Someone brings the beer and the tartar sauce. I make some potatoes and onions. It breaks up the winter."

Eagle River fishing guide Brian Uttech enjoys ice fishing and the firm-flesh pan fish he pulls from lakes in winter. Bluegills, sunfish, perch and crappies are all good winter bites, he said.

Pan fish caught through ice is tastier than fish caught other times of the year, said outdoor writer and author John Motoviloff of Madison, Wis.

"The flesh is the firmest, and the fish doesn't get warm like it does in summer," he said.

His favorite pan fish recipe is pickled with dill and onions. "It's very simple and tasty on a cracker or rye bread with a can of beer."

While many hunters and anglers stick to traditional, tried-and-true recipes, not everyone is a creature of habit, said Motoviloff, author of the cookbook "Wisconsin Wild Foods" (Trails Books, 2005). "Old traditions still hold sway, but there are lots of fresh ideas out there, too."

Wildlife Recipes:

Wildlife artist, outdoor enthusiast and gourmet camp chef Tim Leonardelli offered this recipe (his standard recipe doubles the proportions) featuring his own Smokin' Trigger BBQ Sauce that he sells through his Web site, www.timleonardelli.com, and at Sportsman's Warehouse in New Berlin, Wis:

SHREDDED VENISON 'N' SLAW SLIDERS

Makes 12 sandwiches

2 pounds venison or elk boneless chuck or stew meat, cut into 1-inch cubes (see Note.)

˝ cup chopped onion

1 cup water

1 cup Sportsman's or Smokin' Trigger BBQ Sauce or your favorite sweet and spicy barbecue sauce (see note)

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1 teaspoon salt

4 cups shredded cabbage

12 sandwich buns, split

In Dutch oven, bring meat (venison or elk), onion and water to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer 2 hours or until tender.

Remove meat with a slotted spoon; shred with two forks and set aside. Skim fat from cooking liquid.

Stir in BBQ Sauce, horseradish, mustard and salt. Add shredded meat and cabbage.

Bring to a boil, adding up to Ľ cup water if more liquid is needed.

Reduce heat; cover and simmer 45 minutes or until cabbage is tender. Spoon 1/3 cup onto each sandwich bun.

(Note: Cut into 1-inch cubes because larger chunks of venison won't shred easily.)

Venison's availability in stores this time of year is limited. Bison may be substituted, and is widely available at specialty food stores including Grasch Foods and Whole Foods. The recipe was tested with bison boneless chuck.

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This deliciously different recipe from Tim Leonardelli offers a hunter's spin on bruschetta.

VENISON STEAK BRUSCHETTA WITH GORGONZOLA AND SAUTEED SWEET PEPPERS

Makes about 16 slices

1˝ pounds venison tenderloin, thinly sliced into quarter-inch strips (see note)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 clove minced garlic

˝ cup good-quality olive oil, plus more for brushing (divided)

1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thin strips 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thin strips

˝ teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons julienned fresh basil leaves

1 baguette French bread or similar Italian bread

1 whole garlic clove, roasted

6 ounces Gorgonzola or blue cheese, room temperature, crumbled

Marinade meat in plastic bag with salt, pepper, minced garlic and Ľ cup of the olive oil for about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In medium saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat.

Add peppers and cook until soft, about 10 to 12 minutes, stirring to avoid burning. Sprinkle with sugar and cook 2 more minutes, stirring to avoid burning. Stir in basil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove from pan and set aside.

Using same pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add marinated venison strips.

Cook over medium-high heat about 2 to 3 minutes, making sure meat stays tender and moist. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper. Cover and set aside.

Cut bread on the bias into half inch slices. Rub each slice with roasted garlic clove.

Brush slices lightly with more olive oil on 1 side. Arrange slices in rows, oil side up, on cookie sheet and toast in oven until lightly browned, about 7 to 10 minutes.

Remove bread and top each slice with heaping tablespoon of the peppers.

Top this mixture with 2 to 3 slices of the venison mixture. Then sprinkle crumbled cheese on top.

Return to oven for 1 to 2 minutes and warm through.

Serve immediately.

(Note: Bison, which is widely available, may be substituted in this recipe. The recipe was tested with bison top sirloin. Some specialty shops and grocers, including Whole Foods, carry bison.)

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"You have to try this one," outdoor enthusiast and camp chef Tim Leonardelli said. "Use your bread as a spoon. It is delicious. This is real comfort food at its best."

FISH FONDUE IN MORNAY SAUCE

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms

2 green onions, finely minced, plus additional minced onions for garnish

1 clove garlic, finely minced

6 tablespoons (ľ stick) butter (divided)

2 pounds skinless firm white fish or salmon, cut in 1-inch-thick chunks (see note)

1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 cans (10ľ ounces each) condensed cream of shrimp soup (undiluted)

1 can (10 ľ ounces) condensed cream of mushroom soup (undiluted)

1 package (16 ounces) Velveeta cheese, cut into 1-inch cubes

Pinch of ground nutmeg

10 or 12 threads of saffron

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 cup Parmesan cheese (optional)

1 loaf French or country bread

In large pot, saute mushrooms, onions and garlic in 1 tablespoon butter. Remove from pan and set aside.

To same pan add 2 tablespoons butter. Add fish, Old Bay, salt and pepper. Saute until fish is almost done. Remove from heat. Set aside.

To make sauce: In a large pot, add shrimp and mushroom soups, Velveeta, nutmeg, saffron and remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Stir until cheese melts. Add mushroom mixture. Add cream. Simmer over low heat about 20 minutes. Stir in Parmesan cheese. Gently fold in fish. Simmer another 10 minutes to make sure fish is done. Do not allow mixture to boil.

Serve immediately in bowls garnished with additional green onions. Serve with a slice of warm French or country bread.

Note: If fish is frozen, thaw, wash and pat dry. Shrimp and scallops can be substituted for fish.

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If you're a fan of burgers, try Leonardelli's version made with bluegill.

CREOLE BLUEGILL BURGERS

Makes 6 patties

1 ˝ pounds bluegill fillets, skin removed (see note)

Ľ cup mayonnaise

3 green onions, thinly sliced

l large egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

ľ teaspoon dry mustard

˝ teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

Ľ teaspoon salt 2 cups fine dry bread crumbs (divided)

ľ cup vegetable oil

4 to 6 kaiser rolls or hamburger buns, split, toasted and buttered

Tomato, lettuce, thinly sliced red onion, tartar sauce or cocktail sauce for serving

Boil bluegill fillets until meat is firm, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.

In bowl, stir together cooled fillets, mayonnaise, green onions, egg, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, Old Bay seasoning, salt and 1 cup bread crumbs until just combined. Form into 4 to 6 (1-inch-thick) patties (3˝ inches in diameter). Patties will be soft but will firm up when fried. Spread remaining 1 cup bread crumbs on a plate, then dredge patties in crumbs, knocking off excess, and transfer to a platter.

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Fry patties 2˝ to 3 minutes on each side or until patties are heated through. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Assemble burgers with buns and accompaniments.

Note: If fish is frozen, thaw and rinse before cooking. Cook fish first, then remove skin carefully with knife. Bluegill is available frozen at Sendik's on Downer, and may be available at other specialty food stores.

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Every year, John Motoviloff hunts the opening weekend of gun deer season at his friend Sam Diman's in Crawford County. "His stew is as much a part of the weekend as the hunt," notes Motoviloff, author of the cookbook "Wisconsin Wildfoods."

CRAWFORD COUNTY VENISON STEW

Makes 8 to 10 servings

2 pounds of venison, cubed and trimmed of fat (see Notes)

Flour seasoned with salt and pepper

˝ cup olive oil

1 ˝ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 heaping teaspoon ground ancho chilies (see Notes) 1 teaspoon dried chipotle chilies (see note)

2 large onions, sliced

2 cans (14 ounces each) beef broth

3 large carrots, peeled and sliced

Ľ head white cabbage, coarsely chopped

4 large potatoes, cubed

˝ pound fresh mushrooms, cut in half

Heat oil in deep, heavy kettle.

Shake meat in flour and brown meat well in olive oil over low heat. Add salt, cumin, black pepper, ancho chile and chipotle pepper. Add onions and saute until browned. Add broth. Add carrots, cabbage, potatoes and mushrooms and cook, uncovered, over low heat 2˝ to 3 hours until vegetables and meat are tender. Add more salt and pepper if desired.

(Notes: More widely available bison or elk may be substituted. This recipe was tested with beef. Whole chilies come packaged and must be ground. This stew is best if it sits overnight in the fridge. Enjoy after the hunt with sourdough bread and red wine.)

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© 2009, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel.