A new philosophy is important ingredient

McClatchy Newspapers (MCT) - Anyone who has watched PBS' picaresque food travelogue "Spain ... On the Road Again" knows that Mark Bittman is far from likely to be swept up in any food fads.

Indeed, Bittman is the most commonsensical of food writers, though it's clear that he loves to eat and that his palate has high standards. So when he joins the growing crusade preaching the gospel of avoiding processed foods and eating a mostly plant-based diet, you know he's not just doing it 'cause Michael Pollan, author of last year's popular "In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto", said so.

Bittman's journey began with the realization that global livestock production accounts for more greenhouse gas than cars, trucks, planes and trains do. The catalyst was a constellation of health issues of his own. And so Bittman changed not so much just his diet but his philosophy of eating. The results: 35 pounds lost, better health, a clearer conscience and his latest book: "Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating" (Simon & Schuster, $25).

Any cookbook by Bittman is one I immediately want to add to my personal library, but "Food Matters" is more than a cookbook. It's also a persuasive manifesto and a weight-loss book _ albeit a very different kind from the usual. There are recipes, though _ really more templates than recipes, as they offer infinite ways to customize, enhance and build upon the basics.

These crispy pancakes, for example, can serve as a side dish; as an appetizer; or, atop salad greens, as lunch.

VEGETABLE PANCAKES

Serves 4

Bittman notes that root vegetables are most commonly used in vegetable pancakes, but you can use whatever looks good to you, alone or in combination: zucchini, yellow squash, winter squash, corn, or chopped scallions; even spinach or chard is good (just cook it, squeeze it dry, and chop it first).

About 1 ˝ pounds grated vegetables (3 cups packed), peeled first if necessary and squeezed dry

˝ small onion, grated, or 4 very thinly sliced scallions

1 egg or 2 egg whites, lightly beaten

Ľ cup white or whole-wheat flour, more or less

Salt and black pepper

Olive or vegetable oil or butter

1. Heat oven to 275 degrees. Grate vegetable or vegetables by hand or with grating disk of food processor. Mix together vegetables, onion, egg, and Ľ cup flour. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add a little more flour if the mixture isn't holding together.

2. Put a little butter or oil in large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, drop in spoonfuls of batter, using fork to spread vegetables into even layer, then press down. Work in batches to prevent overcrowding (transfer finished pancakes to oven). Cook, turning once, until nicely browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature, with a drizzle of herbed olive oil, Parmesan or chopped nuts, or any salsa.

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Nutritional analysis per serving: 144 calories, 5 grams fat, 22 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams protein, 53 milligrams cholesterol, 71 milligrams sodium, 6 grams dietary fiber, 30 percent of calories from fat.

_"Food Matters," by Mark Bittman

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© 2009, Fort Worth Star-Telegram.