Chefs and fishermen share recipes for fish that rocks

Daily Press (Newport News, Va.) (MCT) - Rockfish, also known as striped bass, are currently swimming along the Atlantic in numbers that make for some of the best fishing _ and eating _ of the year.

"The prime season is right now into February," said Jim Baugh, the Hampton, Va.-based host of television's "Jim Baugh Outdoors."

The fall rockfish season in the Chesapeake Bay ended on New Year's Eve, after which the action shifted to the Atlantic coast where experienced fishermen regularly catch monster-sized stripers. A 40-pound rockfish is not uncommon.

"The fish have gotten so big and the migratory runs have gotten so strong, this area has earned a reputation as one of the world's great fisheries," Baugh said.

Which means lots of local fishermen in Hampton Roads got to reel in their own dinner _ a meal of fresh rockfish.

Those dinners range from humble to highfalutin.

"It's a hardy meat, so you can do a lot with it," said Greg Burroughs, chef instructor with the Culinary Institute of Virginia. "You can grill it, you can pan sear it. It holds up well, it doesn't fall apart."

He said the fish's subtle flavor opens up possibilities. Unlike salmon, which is oilier and tends to overwhelm other ingredients or flavors, rockfish is mild-mannered.

"It's like a chameleon. It's white and firm, so it will hold up to anything you do to it," Burroughs said. "But simple is better."

We asked a variety of local cooks, chefs and fishermen what they like to do with a fresh, delicious hunk of striped bass. Here are some of their suggestions:

PAN-SEARED ROCKFISH WITH FRESH HERB BUTTER

1 6-ounce rockfish fillet, boneless

1Ľ stick butter, softened at room temperature

2 teaspoon shallots, diced fine

1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (tarragon, chives, basil, etc.)

1 tablespoon butter (for heating shallots)

Salt and pepper to taste

2 teaspoons oil

Preparation: Season rockfish fillet with salt and pepper and reserve.

Heat saute pan. When pan is hot add just enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan and place rockfish fillet skin side up in pan. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes and turn, continue cooking for an additional 4-5 minutes or until desired cook temperature is achieved. Remove fillet, top with herb butter and serve with appropriate side dishes.

Preparation of herb butter: Allow butter to soften at room temperature and reserve in small bowl. Heat saute pan over medium high heat, add 1 tablespoon of butter and shallots. Sweat until you have a strong shallot aroma, add herbs and immediately remove pan from heat. Allow shallots and herb mixture to cool. Fold shallots and herbs into softened butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Butter can be made days ahead, rolled in waxed or parchment paper, kept either in refrigerator or freezer. Pull out 30 minutes prior to service and cut into small disks or coins, remove paper and serve.

Yield: 1 serving

By Greg Burroughs, chef instructor, Culinary Institute of Virginia

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FRESH VIRGINIA ROCKFISH WITH BACON, TOMATOES AND CHOPPED PEANUTS

4 (6-7 ounce) boneless, skinless fresh rockfish fillets

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 strips smoked bacon

1 small white onion, diced fine

1˝ cup fresh tomatoes, diced

˝ cup roasted peanuts

˝ teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 tablespoons butter

Dice bacon and saute until starting to crisp. Add onion and crushed red pepper, cook until onion is translucent. Stir in chopped peanuts and tomatoes and heat until tomatoes are just hot. Set aside.

Take rockfish fillets and rub with olive oil, sprinkle both sides of fish fillets with salt and pepper. In a preheated 350-degree oven, place the fillet on a baking sheet lined with foil. Cook for about 12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet. When the fillet becomes completely white through the sides, it is ready. Top cooked rockfish with tomato mixture and serve.

Yield: 4 Servings

By chef Charlie Little, Berret's Restaurant and Taphouse Grill

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FRESH VIRGINIA ROCKFISH WITH SWEET CREAM, FLASH FRIED OYSTERS, TOMATOES AND GREEN ONIONS

4 (6-7 ounce) boneless, skinless fresh rockfish fillets

1 cup milk

2 tablespoons blended olive oil

1˝ cups ground cracker meal

1 tablespoon Montreal seasoning

divided salt and pepper

1 cup solid shortening

˝ cup diced tomatoes

16 fresh shucked oysters

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

2 whole eggs, beaten

Preparation: Take rockfish fillets and rub with olive oil. Sprinkle both sides of fish fillets with about ˝ of the Montreal seasoning. In a preheated 350-degree oven, place the fillet on a baking sheet lined with foil. Cook for about 12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet. When the fillet becomes completely white through the sides, it is ready.

In a separate, raised side skillet, place the shortening over medium heat until melted and hot.

Before the shortening is melted and getting hot, take the shucked oysters and place in a bowl with the beaten eggs, milk and rest of Montreal seasoning. Let soak for a few minutes then roll the oysters in cracker meal. Oysters should be allowed to sit uncovered in a refrigerator for at least 20 minutes before frying to keep the crust from coming off. When the oysters are done, place them on a paper lined plate and sprinkle with salt and pepper. On a dinner plate, place 2 to 3 ounces of Sweet Cream and Preparation of Herb Sauce. Place the rockfish on the sweet cream and surround with 4 fried oysters. Top with tomatoes and green onions.

Sweet Cream and Fresh Herb Sauce:

1 cup heavy cream

3 tablespoons cream cheese, softened

˝ cube seafood or chicken bouillon

1 tablespoon fresh dill

2 tablespoons butter, softened

Salt and pepper

In a saucepan over medium-low heat, place the heavy cream and bring to a low boil. It is always a good idea to use an oversized pan when reducing heavy cream to prevent the cream from boiling over. As the cream settles to a low boil, add the bouillon and stir with a wooden spoon until dissolved. With the cream reduced and self-thickened, remove from the heat and place in mixing bowl. Add the softened butter, cream cheese and fresh dill and whisk until smooth. Season the cream sauce with salt and pepper. This sauce cannot be refrigerated or reused.

Yield: 4 Servings

By chef Richard Carr, Berret's Seafood Restaurant and Taphouse Grill, Williamsburg, Va. Taken from cookbook "There Is Still Romance In Food."

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FISHERMEN'S BAKED ROCKFISH

4-5 pounds dressed rockfish fillets

Sea salt and ground pepper

Diced chives

Old Bay seasoning

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Melted butter with Old Bay for basting

Preparation: Clean and dry fish thoroughly. Make two or three shallow cuts across the skin side of fish. Sprinkle outside with sea salt, ground pepper. Put in broiling pan skin side down. Use a broiling pan that will drain fats away from fish while cooking. Baste liberally with butter and Old Bay, two to three times. Bake at 350 degrees, basting frequently. Test with a fork after 45 to 60 minutes.

Turn on broiler, place chives on top of fish, then brown.

Finish with a little lemon juice across the top of cooked fish. Serve immediately.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

By Joe Fudge, an avid fisherman for 50 years, who works as a photographer for the Daily Press. This recipe has been used in his family for generations.

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SALSA ROCKFISH

4 fresh rockfish fillets

Thyme

Parsley

White wine

Butter

Fresh cracked pepper

Garlic

1 can of tomatoes

Cilantro

1 onion

You'll also need a large white serving plate. If you do not have a white serving plate, do not cook this dish. You must have the white platter for the presentation!

Preparation: First off, make the salsa. This is not a hot salsa, more of a cool spring topping after the rocks are cooked. Just combine in a bowl the tomatoes, finely chopped onion, some parsley, and chopped cilantro. Add a little olive oil and stir, leave at room temperature. Next, get a broiling pan, put the fillets in the pan with about one cup of white wine in the bottom of the pan. Spread some light butter on top of the fillets, along with a little parsley, thyme, and garlic. Crack some fresh pepper over the fillets and place a few onion rings over top of the fish. Bake fish until done, about 20 minutes at 350 degrees. When the fish is cooked, turn on the broiler and broil off the top of the fish for only a minute or two. All you want to do is brown the top of the fillets. For the presentation, lay the cooked rockfish in a large white serving platter. Next, pour the salsa over top the middle of the fillets. Garnish the dish with some parsley and cilantro. Like most things, this goes well with what we call "Gubby White," more popularly known as Governor's White wine by the Williamsburg Winery.

Yield: 4 servings

By Jim Baugh, host of the Hampton-based television show "Jim Baugh Outdoors"

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SMOKED ROCKFISH APPETIZER

Rockfish fillet

Parsley

Fresh ground pepper

3 cups of white wine

4 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons of Liquid Smoke hickory flavoring

2 teaspoons Liquid Smoke pecan flavoring

Dash of soy sauce

Dash of hot sesame oil

Lemon slices

Capers

Crackers

Preparation: Make an aluminum-foil boat that you can seal up air tight. Put rockfish fillet in the boat, along with parsley, pepper, wine, garlic, Liquid Smoke flavoring, soy sauce, sesame oil and lemon slices. Seal up the aluminum foil boat. Put it on outdoor grill at 450 degrees for an hour and a half.

Gently take boat off the grill, let it sit outside for a half hour to cool. Open foil, serve at room temperature with crackers. Garnish with capers and lemon slices.

Yield: 4 appetizer servings

By Jim Baugh, host of the Hampton-based television show "Jim Baugh Outdoors"

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NEWS TO USE

For Virginia fishing regulations, visit the Virginia Marine Resources Commission at www.mrc.state.va.us/regulations/swrecfishingrules.shtm

For more fishing tips and recipes from expert angler Jim Baugh, visit www.jimbaughoutdoors.com

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© 2009, Daily Press (Newport News, Va.).