Some states take action on fraudulent olive oil labels

Chicago Tribune (MCT) - Olive oil regulation is a slippery subject.

Still, in the last month Connecticut and California have tried to get a handle on it by launching new labeling laws aimed at stopping blatant olive oil fraud.

In response to revelations that some olive oil companies had been pawning off products diluted with soybean, peanut or hazelnut oil as "extra-virgin olive oil," the states have adopted regulations similar to those of the International Olive Oil Council based in Spain. These contain legal definitions for "virgin," "extra-virgin" and "olive pomace" oil as well as giving states the authority to fine wholesalers who sell diluted olive oil without proper labeling.

Similar measures are under consideration in other states. So what can a foodie do to avoid being duped? We called local olive oil experts and specialty food distributors to find out.

_"Know your supplier and source," says Daniel Abdella, director of purchasing for Fox & Obel stores. Abdella says that he relies on excellent relationships with his suppliers so Fox can stand by the quality of "everything on our shelves."

_"Look for estate-produced olive oil," said Sofia Solomon, specialty food importer and president of Tekla Inc. If they grow, pick and bottle the oil on the estate there are fewer opportunities for someone to adulterate it.

_"Buy it from a place that lets you taste the olive oil first," said Didem Tapban, owner of Ta-Ze Chicago, the only U.S. location of this international olive and olive oil purveyor.

_"If it costs less than, say, $10 a liter, it's probably not pure olive oil," Solomon said. "But being very expensive is also not a complete guarantee, either. Sorry."

_"Don't trust extra-virgin labels or even oil color," Solomon said. "Both can be manipulated by using things other than olive oil." Chlorophyll can be used to make it greener and other oils can be mixed in while still maintaining the required acidity (less than 1 percent) for the extra-virgin label.

_"We always say, look for four things on the label: acidity level, production date, expiration date and city of origin," Tapban said. "Most of the finer and more reputable producers will include all of these."

_"And no matter who makes the oil, freshness is going to determine 80 percent of the flavor," Tapban said, adding that olive oil has a two-year shelf life unopened and a three month shelf life after it has been opened. (Store olive oil in a dark, cool place.)

Some olive oil producers that Solomon trusts: Badia Coltibuono, Tenuta di Capezzana and L'Estornell by Vea S.A.

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Consider picking up a bottle in California or Connecticut the next time you are there. Maybe the new laws will scare the scammers away.

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