Traditional favorites even more popular in anxious times

McClatchy Newspapers (MCT) - Carol Godbey didn't know what to expect.

Thanksgiving dinner at the venerable Vance Godbey's restaurant in Lakeside, Texas, northwest of Fort Worth, is a holiday tradition.

But she wouldn't have believed that this year would be their best Thanksgiving until she saw 1,400 customers crowd the buffet lines to sample old standbys such as crab salad, fried cauliflower and brisket.

Though surprised, Godbey has no trouble understanding the appeal of the 53-year-old restaurant, opened by her late father.

"If you came out here 10 years ago and you come out here now, it is exactly the same," Godbey said. "They relive their memories. I've had so many people thank me over and over for keeping it exactly the same."

With the downturn in the economy and worries about the future, other businesses that trade in nostalgia or comfort items are also seeing an upsurge in interest.

OLD SONGS AND TOYS

At oldies radio station KLUV/98.7 FM, in Texas, they started playing Christmas music the day after Thanksgiving.

Instead of novelty tunes like "Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer," like they normally do, listeners are requesting the standards.

"We're getting more requests for the Bing Crosby, Nat Cole, Johnny Mathis, Barbra Streisand stuff than we normally do," program director Peter J. Zolnowski said. "Carols, in particular, are the heartwarming comfort titles people are requesting."

A popular toy Web site, backtobasictoys.com, where the slogan is "they don't make them like they used to," reports that sales of classic board games and toys are up 10 percent to 12 percent over last year.

One day recently, the top seller on the Web site was Rock'em Sock'em Robots.

"Classic board games _ Clue, Candyland, Chutes and Ladders _ are selling well," said Ken Moe, managing director of the Herndon, Va.-based company, a division of Scholastic Inc. "... Slinky, Lincoln Logs and the Retroflyer wagon have been really popular. The sale of yo-yos has also really been up."

Moe said these types of toys have always been popular, but demand has been especially high this year.

"When times are tight, folks are spending a little bit less," Moe said. "Even in a tough year, parents want their children to be exposed to nonviolent, open-ended play and to experience what they experienced as children."

Campbell Soup has also seen a run on its Web site for classic recipes. Company spokesman John Faulkner said Web site activity doubled from September 2007 to September this year.

In December, crock pot recipes were the most popular search item on the Web site, and a 1950s standard, green bean casserole, was the most downloaded recipe.

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But Faulkner said it isn't just nostalgia: Stretching the dollar may play be playing as much of a role as the desire to recreate Grandma's favorite dish.

"I think one is feeding the other," Faulkner said. "There is a definite economic factor out there."

COMFORT IN FAMILIARITY

None of this surprises Tricia Jenkins, assistant professor of critical television studies in the department of radio, television and film at Texas Christian University.

"It makes sense that people would seek comfort in items they enjoyed in their youth _ whether it is toys, food or music _ during a recession," Jenkins said. "... A Mr. Potato Head or an old family recipe no longer just represent a toy or a meal, but rather they serve as symbols of an idealized past and help us psychologically reconnect to that time."

But Robert Thompson, a professor of pop culture at Syracuse University, argues that Americans crave nostalgia, regardless of the economy, regardless of the season. American pop culture is based on the ability to reinvent yourself and escapism.

"Certainly, there's a need for escapism in everybody," Thompson said. "I think 60-70 percent of the population is always going through hard times, whether it's trouble with a child or a parent with a cancer. The only difference now is this is a shared experience. I think there is an overall demand in this culture for the comfort type of culture. It's always been at a pretty high level."

CONCERN ABOUT FUTURE

Many comfort food institutions have seen little change in business in recent months. They all view that as good news given the state of the economy.

But Lili's Bistro on Magnolia Street in south Fort Worth did listen to its customers' wishes by offering its lunch menu during the evening. Lili's owner, Vance Martin, said he is selling more King Ranch Chicken and Classic Texas Steak but said they are always more popular this time of year.

"People aren't watching their bikini figures," Martin said. "But my burger sales are through the roof, and I never set out to be a burger joint."

Martin is worried about what will happen to the south Fort Worth restaurants and businesses after the holidays. If the downturn continues, comfort food items might not be enough.

"I think everybody is doing pretty well over here _ frankly, I don't expect that to last after the inauguration," Martin said. "I think there's some optimism out there right now, whether you're a Democrat of Republican. But after the new administration takes hold, there's a lot of uncertainty out there about whether the economy gets worse or better. How long will it be before it rebounds?"

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© 2008, Fort Worth Star-Telegram.