Don't stop gardening! Winter-hardy herbs look fabulous, add pop and flavor

McClatchy Newspapers (MCT) - At her family-run herb farm in Vacaville, Calif., Rose Loveall-Sale hears the same question often this time of year.

"'Where's the winter basil?' customers ask that all the time," she said. "But there is no winter basil. There's only summer basil."

That popular herb can't take cool weather, fizzling to nothing as soon as nighttime temperatures drop into the 40s. But there are plenty of other great herbs that add pop and flavor to cooking all winter long.

And for pesto lovers, such herbs as arugula and Italian parsley can sub for beloved basil with a little creativity and olive oil.

Several of these winter-hardy herbs not only taste good, they look fabulous in the December landscape, adding interesting contrast to borders and rock gardens. Planting them now provides flavoring for hearty winter dishes as well as allowing these perennials to put down healthy roots and establish themselves for years to come.

In mild climates, some varieties of rosemary and sage bloom through winter into spring, a plus for hummingbirds.

"Rosemary, sage and thyme _ those are the obvious choices for winter," Loveall-Sale said. "But there are several other herbs that are fabulous for winter gardening and cooking."

Located just west of Vacaville, Morningsun Farm grows more than 500 species of herbs and perennials. About 100 to 125 herb varieties thrive in winter.

That includes several colorful sages or salvias, including the blue-gray California native Cleveland sage. That particular sage is used more for its flowers and foliage than for culinary use.

Yellow, red, blue, purple, white _ sage blooms in many colors. Loveall-Sale plucked some purple blooms from a sprawling purple plant and squeezed the flowers between her fingers. A burst of grape scent filled the air, true to this herb's name _ grape-scented sage.

"It tastes like fresh grapes, too," she said. "It's delightful in Christmas Day salads."

Rosemary _ an evergreen with strong, straight stems _ does double duty as both flavoring and utensil. The leaves flavor meat; the stems can act as skewers. Rosemary also can grow into an impressive bush lasting many years.

The biggest winter herb towers over the Morningsun garden. Two bay laurel trees stand more than 20 feet tall. These two specimens were grown from seed taken from a 150-year-old laurel tree in Vacaville.

"They can reach 40 feet," she said of the laurel trees, "but you can also trim them into a bush and keep them under 3 feet. It's up to you."

Like sage, laurel also has a California native in the family, but its flavor tends to be too strong for most cooks.

Light your Free Virtual Prayer Candle for Christmas

During a tour of her herb garden, Loveall-Sale pointed out the winter savory, as the name implies a December alternative to its summer cousin.

"It almost looks like thyme," she said. "It has this wonderful peppery flavor that's well suited to winter cooking. You can use it in soups, stews, egg dishes. And of course, it's great with beans. It's very easy to grow and works great in a container garden."

Two Italian natives _ oregano and flat parsley _ also winter well in milder climates.

"There are so many different oreganos, but only the Italian oregano will last through the winter," Loveall-Sale said while admiring a huge example. "You can butcher it all winter long and it will continue to do well."

From a single 4-inch pot, this particular oregano now covered an entire bed, 5 feet square.

"It does tend to spread," she noted. "But you can corral it. This oregano also has a very pretty soft, white flower. It's great for wreaths and decorations."

Italian (flat) parsley tastes a lot like the familiar curly variety. But while the curly type shuts down in winter, its flat cousin keeps chugging along.

"It will last a full year before it bolts and then it usually reseeds itself," she said.

Mexican tarragon, actually a member of the marigold family, is another winter alternative to a summer favorite. While French tarragon dies back to the ground, Mexican tarragon produces through the year.

"It blooms in fall and winter," Loveall-Sale said. "It has a beautiful, sweet anise flavor. Both the leaves and flowers are edible. They taste like licorice."

Another marigold relative is a common winter bloomer, but an unusual herb. Calendulas _ the pretty little orange flower _ is another staple in Loveall-Sale's own winter garden.

"You eat just the flowers," she said. "They add a little spice and color to salads."

Don't forget garlic, which grows dependably all winter. "That makes a good substitute for chives, that tend to poop out," she said. "Use the green portion now and the cloves next summer."

Three salad herbs _ arugula, burnet and sorrel _ add interesting flavor to winter meals and bright green to the garden.

"They're very nutritious greens," she said. "They'll make it through the winter and add to salads the whole season long."

Many of these winter herbs take to container gardening. Morningsun packages five to seven popular herbs planted together in a 12-inch pot, an idea that's easily replicated at home with herbs of the gardener's choice.

Find the best Christmas presents at Catholic Online Shopping

"It makes a great hostess gift during the holidays," she said. "It can decorate the table, then you can use (the herbs) in the kitchen. And in the spring, you can replant the herbs in the garden so they can really take off."

___

© 2008, The Sacramento Bee (Sacramento, Calif.).