Speaking out on wine: 5 books to fit differing tastes on your gift list

Chicago Tribune (MCT) - Voice is almost as important as vino in the new crop of wine books. Whether it's a what-to-buy wine guide, an industry insider's autobiography or a consumerist manifesto, the most intriguing wine books have a personal point of view. Another plus: Many of these books are moderately priced.

Here are my five top picks for this holiday season:

ON A WINE MISSION

"The Battle for Wine and Love or How I Saved the World from Parkerization"

By Alice Feiring

(Harcourt, $23)

Why do so many wines taste alike? That's the question wine journalist Alice Feiring sets out to answer in this book, part autobiography, part manifesto, part True Confessions. She emerges as a feisty champion of wines traditionally crafted by rebel winemakers who care more about terroir than points from Robert M. Parker Jr., the world's most influential wine critic.

As one would surmise from the title, here is a writer not lacking in ego, nor is she above whining about aches and pains, lousy boyfriends and European ideas of what vegetarian means. Still, there's commendable passion and considerable smarts on display. Hers is a compelling story of a life and education in the world of wine.

WORLD TOUR

"Gary Vaynerchuk's 101 Wines"

By Gary Vaynerchuk

(Rodale, $19.95)

The author is a New Jersey wine store owner who has become a superstar of the wine blogosphere thanks to his daily wine review spots at WineLibraryTV.com. Now, he brings his spirited style to print as he presents 101 wines "guaranteed to inspire, delight and bring thunder to your world."

Starting with No. 101, a 2003 Mas de la Barben Les Calices for $44, and running up to No. 1, a 2005 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines Sauternes for $39, he roams the world, bringing all types of wines at all price points to the reader's attention. Each entry offers the basics: maker, vintage, region, grape variety and number of cases made. He then gives a pocket description of the wine, often augmented by sidebars on specific wine regions, grape types, tips on reading labels and so on.

Vaynerchuk believes the only way to learn about wine is to drink. So, he's very proud that all the wines he highlights are widely available in their current vintages. But those lucky 101 wines may not be out there long. Vaynerchuk's enthusiasm is infectious; you'll want to dash out and buy them all.

SHAPING THE WINE WORLD

"Taste: A Life in Wine"

By Anthony Terlato

(Agate Surrey, $26)

You may not know who Anthony Terlato is but chances are you've drunk his wines, either wines he has imported from around the world or made under a legion of labels owned by his Lake Bluff, Ill.-based company, Terlato Wines International.

All autobiographies are intrinsically personal. Yet, this is also the story of how Americans over the last 50 years have come to know wine and how some of Terlato's business decisions have changed forever what we drink and why. He is known as the father of pinot grigio in the U.S. for a reason; he was the importer of Santa Margherita. This is no tell-all book, but Terlato often reveals much by what he doesn't write. You sense the inner steel and discipline that made him a success in a competitive business. The book also contains a number of recipes for some of Terlato's favorite dishes; he also is a hard-core foodie who has long championed wine with food.

PUTTING RATINGS TO THE TEST

"The Wine Trials"

By Robin Goldstein with Alexis Herschkowitsch

(Fearless Critic Media, $14.95)

You may recall the minor dust-up when The Wine Spectator gave an award of excellence to a fictitious Italian restaurant whose wine list was stocked with the magazine's past rejects. The prank fueled questions about the value to the consumer of Wine Spectator's lucrative wine award program. Robin Goldstein was the one behind the scam. Now, he is out with a book underscoring his belief that wine drinkers are unfairly swayed by ratings, awards, brand names, marketing ploys and price.

His solution? Put some 560 wines in paper bags and conduct a blind taste test using 507 tasters. What followed was a list of 100 wines selling for less than $15 that outscored wines priced between $50 and $150. Each of the 100 wines is profiled; all are readily available.

Though it's tempting to skip right to the listings, do take time to read the rest of the book. Goldstein does a good job examining the business of wine and how you, the buyer, are affected.

PRACTICAL ADVICE

"A Year of Wine"

By Tyler Colman

(Simon Spotlight Entertainment, $24)

This has been quite the year of books for Chicago native Tyler Colman, who is known to Web wine fans as Dr. Vino from the blog DrVino.com. First there was the serious and provocative work, "Wine Politics: How Governments, Environmentalists, Mobsters, and Critics Influence the Wines We Drink." Now there's this fun, informative manual, whose subtitle says it all: "Perfect Pairings, Great Buys, and What to Sip for Each Season."

Colman teaches wine classes at New York University and the University of Chicago. If he teaches like he writes, he's no snoozy professor. This charming book is witty, lively and loaded with common sense. He offers up wine suggestions for every holiday on the calendar. Just what we all need.

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