None better than butter

McClatchy Newspapers (MCT) - This time of year, supermarkets usually have a center aisle where you'll find specialty items for holiday cooking.

Bread flour, sugar, baking powder, yeast, sweetened condensed milk and chocolate chips are there, but most importantly, we'll need butter to bring all those ingredients to the taste level desired for holiday goodies.

When it comes to cooking and baking for the holidays, there is no substitute for real butter.

"Anything worth making is worth getting the maximum flavor possible. Whether it's the sweet potato casserole or traditional Christmas cookies, butter really is better," said Kathy Belcher of Louisville, Ky., a registered dietitian and program director for the Southeast Dairy Association.

"When it comes to choosing between butter and margarine, I don't waste my calories on margarine," she said. "Whether I'm spreading it on an English muffin or steaming broccoli, I want maximum flavor. Because of the rich taste of butter, I'm able to use less and in the end, save calories."

Professional chefs and bakers agree that there is no substitute for the flavor and performance of real butter for cooking and baking.

"We use real butter in our recipes," said Tracie Tinker, owner of Tinker's Cake Shop in Lexington, Ky. "It gives our cakes and cookies a better taste and texture. Our customers are always amazed at how light our buttercream icing is, because it is not heavy and greasy like shortening-based icing. With all the health concerns of shortening, we feel it is better to use the real thing as much as possible."

Premium butters are available at the supermarket, and you can choose the one that suits your budget. But if you can spare the extra money, go for an artisanal butter.

Bittersweet Plantation Dairy in Gonzales, La., has taken butter to a higher (fat) level. Chef/owner John Folse is the author of numerous cookbooks, including "The Encyclopedia of Cajun & Creole Cuisine," and is host of the nationally syndicated television cooking show, "A Taste of Louisiana." Folse is better known for his artisanal cheeses, but butter's popularity "has really gone crazy," he said in a telephone interview.

Bittersweet Plantation butter is hand-churned, 50 pounds at a time, in four, five or seven batches a day. It's available at Whole Foods or online at www.jfolse.com.

"I am able to choose my own milk, farm-fresh Jersey milk, and naturally ferment it over a certain period of time. In a commercial operation, culture or starter is put into the butter," he said. "It has a higher butterfat (82 percent) and nice golden color."

Folse makes salted, sweet cream, chocolate pecan and white chocolate praline butter. He said the chocolate pecan butter looks and tastes like a chocolate truffle.

"It's a beautiful artisanal butter, same hand-churned Jersey milk butter, and I add chocolate and pecans and churn it again. It's absolutely spectacular," he said.

Folse said you can make your own artisanal butter at home. Buy heavy whipping cream with 32 percent to 40 percent fat ("I use 40," he said.) Put a pint of whipping cream in a glass quart jar. Close the lid tightly. While sitting in a chair watching TV, start shaking the jar back and forth, or give it to the kids and let them pass the jar around, shaking it. Your hands will warm the cream, and you'll start to see the cream thicken with little pieces. It will start to have a texture like cornmeal. Shake it a little harder until you see the curds (butterfat) separate from the whey (water). Strain through cheesecloth. Squeeze the butter in the cheesecloth and rinse it under running water. Place the butter in a container and refrigerate.

Real butter, especially hand-churned, definitely adds flavor to holiday foods.

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WILD MUSHROOM BUTTER SAUCE

12 tablespoons butter, divided

Ľ cup shallots, diced

1 leek, sliced

2 teaspoons fresh ginger, grated

4 ounces fresh wild mushrooms, chopped (crimini, yellow oyster, shiitake.)

Ľ cup chicken broth

Salt and pepper, to taste

In a heavy skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add shallots, leek and ginger; saute until leek is soft. Puree leek mixture in a food processor or blender; set aside.

Melt remaining 10 tablespoons butter in skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms and saute 2 to 3 minutes. Add leek puree, broth, and salt and pepper; mix well and bring to a simmer; serve hot.

You may thin out sauce with additional chicken broth, if desired. Store sauce in refrigerator for as long as three days. Reheat to serve. Makes 1˝ cups.

Source: America's Dairy Farmers

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BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE ORANGE BUTTER

3 ounces bittersweet chocolate (at least 70 percent cocoa), chopped

1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter, slightly chilled

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

2 tablespoons orange zest, finely grated

2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

Optional: ˝ cup roasted and salted pistachio nuts, chopped into halves and quarters

Melt chocolate in microwave-safe bowl on low at 1-minute intervals, stirring until just melted and smooth. Or, using a double boiler, place chocolate in top bowl, stirring frequently until just melted, taking care not to overheat at bottom or sides. Allow melted chocolate to cool enough to touch.

Place the cooled butter in a medium mixing bowl and with an electric mixer (fitted with the paddle) or wooden spoon, beat until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides.

Beat in the cooled chocolate, cocoa, zest and sugar, scraping sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed to incorporate all ingredients. Stir in nuts if desired.

Scrape into a small bowl, serving crock or butter mold and cover tightly; or shape into a long roll in grease-proof paper (plastic, wax or parchment) for storing and slicing as needed.

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BOURBON CHERRY BUTTER WITH ORANGE

Ľ cup bourbon

˝ cup dried cherries

1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter, room temperature

2 tablespoons orange zest, freshly grated

2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar, or to taste

Optional: 1 tablespoon orange or angostura bitters or additional bourbon

In a small bowl, soak the cherries in bourbon, stirring occasionally, until bourbon is almost absorbed. This will take 2 to 12 hours. (To speed the process, lightly heat the cherries in bourbon, but cool completely before adding to butter.)

Place the butter in a medium mixing bowl and with an electric mixer (fitted with the paddle) or wooden spoon, beat until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides. Add the soaked cherries, zest, sugar and bitters or additional bourbon (if using) and beat to incorporate, scraping sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.

Scrape into a small bowl, serving crock or butter mold and cover tightly; or shape into a long roll in grease-proof paper (plastic, wax or parchment) for storing and slicing as needed.

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SWEET POTATO BISCUITS

2 to 3 medium sweet potatoes (about 1˝ pounds)

˝ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter cut into chunks

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons white sugar

˝ teaspoon salt

Ľ teaspoon cinnamon

Ľ teaspoon nutmeg

Ľ teaspoon ginger

1˝ cups flour

1˝ teaspoons baking powder

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Scrub sweet potatoes, prick them in several places with a fork, and microwave them until tender, at least 10 minutes. Carefully slice them in half, scoop the hot flesh from the skins, and add to a mixing bowl with the butter. Using an electric mixer, whip together potatoes and butter until well combined, about 2 minutes. Beat in sugars, salt and spices. Let the mixture cool for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, stir together flour and baking powder in a medium bowl with a fork. Add flour mixture to potato mixture and use a fork to combine well. You might have to knead the dough by hand a bit at the end. On a floured surface, roll out or pat the dough into an 8-by-8-inch square about ľ inch thick. With a sharp knife or square biscuit cutter dipped in flour, cut out 2-inch square biscuits. (Making them square means you can use all the dough in one go, rather than rerolling it.)

Place the dough squares 2 inches apart on a baking sheet that has been greased or lined with parchment. Bake until they're golden brown on the bottom and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean, about 15 to 20 minutes. Makes 16 biscuits.

Source: Wondertime magazine

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LEMONGRASS SNOWBALLS

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened

˝ cup confectioners' sugar

1 teaspoon lemon extract or lemon baking oil

2 cups all-purpose flour

2/3 cup unsweetened coconut, fine or medium shred

2˝ tablespoons lemongrass puree or 1 tablespoon lemongrass powder (see note)

2 cups (12-ounce package) white chocolate chips, chopped and divided

Additional lemongrass powder and coconut for decoration (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Beat butter and sugar with an electric mixer until creamy. Add lemon oil or extract. Gradually beat in flour, coconut and lemongrass puree. Stir in 1˝ cups white chocolate chips. Shape dough into 1-inch balls and place ˝ inch apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake on middle rack until cookies are set and light golden brown on bottom, 10 to 12 minutes.

Cool on baking sheets 2 minutes; remove to cooling racks to cool completely. Microwave remaining white chocolate chips in heavy-duty plastic bag, kneading at 10- to 15-second-intervals, until totally melted and smooth. Cut a tiny corner from bag; squeeze to drizzle over cookies. Sprinkle with additional lemongrass powder and coconut, if desired. Refrigerate cookies for about 5 minutes or until chocolate is set. Store cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for as long as 1 week. Makes 4 dozen cookies

Note: Either lemongrass puree or ground powder can be used. The puree can be found in squeeze tubes in most supermarket produce sections, and dry powder can be found in the spice section or in the Asian food section of the international area.

Source: Wisconsin Dairy Council

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BROWNED BUTTER

1 cup butter

Melt butter over medium-high heat in heavy 2-quart saucepan. Continue cooking, watching closely, until butter foams and just turns a delicate golden color (3 to 5 minutes). Immediately remove from heat. Cool to room temperature. Makes 1 cup.

The nutty flavor of browned butter and balsamic vinegar gives this colorful side dish an appealing flavor. Use a deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid for quick cooking.

BROCCOLI AND RED PEPPER WITH BROWNED BUTTER

˝ stick butter (Ľ cup)

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped shallots or onion

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

3 teaspoons olive oil

7 cups broccoli florets

1 medium (1 cup) red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 teaspoon salt

Ľ teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, if desired (see note)

Melt butter in 2-quart heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly and watching closely, until butter turns golden brown (4 to 6 minutes). Remove from heat; stir in shallots, garlic and vinegar. Set aside.

Place all remaining ingredients except water and sesame seeds in deep 12-inch skillet. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, 3 minutes. Add water; reduce heat to medium. Cover; continue cooking until broccoli is crisply tender (4 to 5 minutes). Remove from heat.

Stir browned butter mixture into broccoli. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

Note: To toast sesame seeds, place seeds in shallow baking pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 6 to 8 minutes or until lightly browned.

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BASIC 1-2-3-4 CAKE

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature

2 cups sugar

4 eggs

3 cups sifted self-rising flour

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour three 9-inch cake pans. Using an electric mixer, cream butter until fluffy. Add sugar and continue to cream well for 6 to 8 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add flour and milk alternately to creamed mixture, beginning and ending with flour. Add vanilla and continue to beat until just mixed. Divide batter equally among prepared pans. Level batter in each pan by holding pan 3 or 4 inches above counter, then dropping it flat onto counter. Do this several times to release air bubbles and to assure a more level cake. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until done. Cool in pans for 5 to 10 minutes. Invert cakes onto cooling racks. Cool completely and spread cake layers with your favorite frosting to make a 3-layer cake.

Note: As each layer is stacked, stick it with toothpicks to prevent cake from shifting.

Source: Paula Deen

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FIERY CAJUN SHRIMP

2 cups (4 sticks) melted butter

Ľ cup Worcestershire sauce

Ľ cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons ground pepper

2 tablespoons hot sauce

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons salt

5 pounds unpeeled medium shrimp

2 lemons, thinly sliced

Stir together butter, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, pepper, hot sauce, garlic and salt. Pour half the mixture into a large heatproof dish. Layer half the shrimp and half the lemon slices in the dish; then form a second layer with the remaining shrimp and lemon slices, and pour remaining sauce into the dish. Bake, uncovered, at 400 degrees for 20 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink, stirring twice. Pour off the sauce into individual serving dishes. Serve the shrimp with plenty of French bread for dipping in the spicy butter sauce. Makes 8 servings.

Source: Paula Deen

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HAM BISCUIT FILLING

1 cup ground cooked country or regular ham

4 tablespoons butter

In a food processor, grind ham into small pieces. Add butter and pulse until combined. Split hot biscuits and, using about 1 tablespoon of mixture, fill each biscuit. Makes enough filling for about 36 biscuits.

Source: Paula Deen

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STORING AND HANDLING

To preserve butter's flavor and freshness, refrigerate opened butter in a covered dish in the butter compartment. Unopened, wrapped salted butter can be stored in the refrigerator for as long as 2 months. Butter can be frozen in its original wrapper for several months. Unsalted butter is best kept frozen until ready to use. For longer freezer storage, wrap in foil or plastic. Unsalted butter can be kept frozen for about 5 months at 0 degrees. Salted butter can be frozen for about 6 to 9 months.

What are the equivalencies for these measurements?

2 cups = 4 sticks = 1 pound = 32 tablespoons

1 cup = 2 sticks = ˝ pound = 16 tablespoons

˝ cup = 1 stick = Ľ pound = 8 tablespoons

Ľ cup = ˝ stick = 1?8 pound = 4 tablespoons

How to make whipped butter:

Cream slightly softened butter in a mixer or processor at medium speed or with on/off pulses of the processor until light in color and slightly fluffy. Continue mixing at high or process continuously until butter is fluffy.

How to make clarified butter:

Clarified or drawn butter is clear, melted butter separated from its milk solids and water. Melt butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Remove white froth as it forms on top. When the milk solids separate and settle at the bottom of the pan, carefully pour off the clear, yellow butter and discard the milk solids. Compared to regular butter, clarified butter can be heated to a higher temperature without burning and can be stored longer. One pound of butter makes 12 ounces of clarified butter.

Prevent butter from going rancid:

Properly storing butter in the refrigerator or freezer and tightly wrapping butter to minimize its exposure to air will help keep butter from going rancid. Exposure to oxygen increases the risk of rancidity. When oxygen comes in contact with the unsaturated fatty acids in butter, off-smelling and off-tasting compounds can develop. Rancid butter is safe to eat.

The best way to soften butter:

For 4 tablespoons of butter, place the butter in one piece on a small microwave-safe plate. Place the plate in the microwave and heat for 1 minute at 10 percent power. Press on the butter with your finger to see whether it is sufficiently softened; if not, heat for an additional 20 seconds at 10 percent power. This method also works with whole sticks.

BUTTER Q&A

Q: Can I substitute whipped butter for stick butter in baking recipes?

A: Whipped butter is made by incorporating air into butter. Manufacturers do this to increase the butter's spreadability, especially for slathering on toast. Adding air increases the volume of the butter, not the weight. In other words, a 4-ounce stick of butter measures ˝ cup in volume, and 4 ounces of whipped butter measures 1 cup.

Unsalted whipped butter makes a fine substitute for unsalted stick butter in baked goods, but do not make the swap in uncooked applications, such as frosting. And remember to make the substitutions based on weight, not volume. A standard tub of whipped butter weighs 8 ounces, equal to two sticks of butter.

Q: Why shouldn't I cook or bake with salted butter?

A: Originally, butter was salted to preserve it, but its flavor keeps people coming back for more. It's fine for your toast, but we strongly advise against cooking with it for three reasons:

First, the relatively high amount of salt in the recipe can unbalance a recipe's salt content. Secondly, salted butter tastes different than sweet cream butter. The salt masks some of the delicate nuance, especially once cooked.

And lastly, salted butter almost always contains more water. Water content in butter can range from 10 percent to 18 percent. (By law, fat content in butter must exceed 80 percent.) In baking, the butter with the lowest water content (sweet butter) is preferred, because excess water from butter can interfere with the development of gluten in the flour.

Q: Why wait for butter to stop foaming in the pan before cooking?

A: The simple answer is that it's an easy visual cue for the cook to know when the melted butter is ready for cooking. To be more specific, when the foaming stops, it's an indication that all the water in the butter (which is about 80 percent fat and 20 percent water) has evaporated. Melted butter starts out near 212 degrees, but as the water cooks off and the foaming subsides, the fat in the pan will continue to get hotter, starting to smoke when it reaches 250 degrees. Sauteing food in butter is most successful when the fat is at a higher temperature, which can be reached only when most of the water has been removed. Additionally, cooking food in the presence of water could produce unwanted steamed or boiled flavors rather than the dry-heat flavors and browning produced by straight-up fat.

Sources: National Dairy Council and Cook's Illustrated

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© 2008, Lexington Herald-Leader (Lexington, Ky.).