Chili: Columbus performs the old switcheroo

Chicago Tribune (MCT) - Christopher Columbus could have given those calculating guys on "Mad Men" a true run for their money. He was supposed to sail to Asia and load up on very valuable black peppercorns, the Medieval European equivalent of balsamic vinegar, black truffle, fleur de sel and beluga caviar all rolled into one.

Instead, Columbus returns from what is now called the Caribbean with a pile of fiery chilies.

"What is this?" asked the Spanish.

Columbus' answer, as reported in "Why We Eat What We Eat" by Raymond Sokolov, was interesting and evasive.

Instead of calling the chilies by their indigenous name, aji, he calls them peppers after the peppercorns he never found.

In so doing, Columbus started "a worldwide nomenclatural confusion that complicates culinary communication in dozens of languages even today," wrote Sokolov. Chilies were being cultivated in Mexico more than 5,000 years ago, according to "Foods of the Americas."

Today, chilies are grown all over the world. Among the areas where chilies figure prominently are China, India, Mexico, Spain, Thailand, Africa and South America, according to "The New Food Lover's Companion."

Some 200 varieties of chilies are grown; the heat can vary dramatically from mild to blistering depending on the type of chili. Capsaicin is the element that gives chilies their heat. The heat of a chili pepper is measured by something called Scoville Heat Units. A sweet bell pepper would rate 0 units, a jalapeno from 2,500 to 4,000 units, notes "The Oxford Companion to Food."

Chilies are used fresh, dried and in a number of preparations, from Hungarian paprika to Chinese chili bean paste to hot sauces made in Louisiana.

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SPICY PORK AND PEPPER GOULASH

Prep: 40 minutes

Cook: 3 ˝ hours

Makes: 8 servings

The "goulash" in the title and the inclusion of paprika and sour cream in the ingredients shows chef Jamie Oliver is giving a nod to Hungary in this recipe from his new book, "Cook Your Way to the Good Life." Paprika is a seasoning made from powdered mild red chili peppers. Peppers, and tomatoes, are plants originally from the New World.

1 boneless pork shoulder roast, about 3-4 pounds

1 teaspoon salt

Ľ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 red onions, finely sliced

2 red chilies, seeded, finely chopped

2 tablespoons sweet smoked or regular paprika, plus extra for serving

2 teaspoons ground caraway seeds

˝ cup fresh marjoram or oregano leaves

5 bell peppers, seeded, sliced (use a mixture of colors)

1 jar (10 ounces) roasted red peppers, drained, chopped

1 can (14 ounces) plum tomatoes

4 cups water

Ľ cup red wine vinegar

2/3 cup sour cream

Zest of 1 lemon

Small bunch fresh parsley, chopped

1. Score the fat on the pork in a crisscross pattern all the way through to the meat. Season with Ľ teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper. Heat a Dutch oven over medium-high heat; add the olive oil. Add the pork, fat side down. Cook until browned and the fat is rendered, about 20 minutes. Remove pork from the pan; set aside. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of the fat.

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2. Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Add the onions, chilies, paprika, caraway seeds, marjoram, the remaining ľ teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper to the pan. Turn the heat to medium; cook, stirring often, 10 minutes. Add the bell peppers, roasted red peppers and the tomatoes and their liquid.

3. Return the pork to the Dutch oven; add water and vinegar. Heat to a boil; cover. Bake, turning pork once or twice, until the pork is tender and can be easily pulled apart, about 3 hours.

4. Stir together the sour cream, lemon zest and three-fourths of the parsley in a small bowl; set aside. Remove pork from Dutch oven to cutting board; break apart the meat. Return to Dutch oven. Ladle the goulash into bowls; sprinkle with remaining parsley. Serve with sour cream mixture.

Nutrition information

Per serving: 398 calories, 43 percent of calories from fat, 19 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 119 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 41 g protein, 645 mg sodium, 4 g fiber

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