The color lavender: Soothing purple herb lends flavor as well as fragrance

Milwaukee Journal Sentinel (MCT) - The name conjures up memories of the lunar-like volcano, soft sand beaches, shy green sea turtles, umbrella-accented mai tais and a fragrant lavender farm.

Lavender?

Indeed, Ali'i Kula Lavender, a lush 10-acre farm where low clumps of gray-green leaves sprout spikes of lavender-colored flowers, hides in the clouds on the slopes of the volcano Haleakala.

"It's intoxicating out here," one visitor murmured as she wandered through a field where a worker was hand-cutting flower stalks. Above, the afternoon clouds hung low over the volcano; 4,000 feet below, the Pacific glimmered on the island's windward and leeward coasts.

Mention lavender and most people think of the scent, either in a sachet or in personal-care products such as lotion, soap or perfume.

But let's take a deep breath of that unmistakable fragrance, which is touted for its calming properties, and think about tasting the herb. Maybe you have _ it's a key ingredient in the herbes de Provence mixture.

Ali'i Kula Lavender, which started by selling lavender lemonade, tea and scones to visitors in 2002, now sells products ranging from lavender liliko'i (passion fruit) jelly and lavender truffles, to a lavender gourmet seasoning, which includes Hawaiian salt and kukui nut; and lavender pepper seasoning for steaks, chicken and pork.

Lavender lovers who can't just hop on a plane to Hawaii can grow it in sunny, well-drained gardens in Wisconsin (see accompanying story). Or they can buy culinary-grade dried buds locally at spice shops; it runs about $3.50 for a half-ounce jar.

"I love lavender," said Latreace Laack, who works at The Spice House in St. Louis, Mo. "I find lavender to be very sweet," Laack said, "and prefer it in sweet things," such as cookies and shortbread. But it's also good in savory dishes; she said it's most common in French dishes.

The Spice House's description of its herbes de Provence seasoning says it adds "flowery sophistication" to roast lamb or turkey, soups and vegetable dishes, especially eggplant or zucchini.

Home cooks as well as chic restaurants are discovering its "sweet floral flavor," according to the folks at Taste of Home magazine. Penzey's in Wauwatosa has sold a little more than usual since the August/September issue came out with recipes for Almond Lavender Cake and Lavender Ice Cream. The magazine recommends English lavender for cooking.

SWEET AND SAVORY

Milwaukee chefs use lavender in a variety of ways.

French lavender grows in the kitchen garden at Roots Restaurant and Cellar, 1818 N. Hubbard St. Chef/owner John Raymond reports using it mostly in custards and ice creams, but also in fish broths. Roots' bar also experiments with the herb, he said by e-mail.

At Meritage, 5921 W. Vliet St., chef/owner Jan Kelly adds it to desserts such as panna cotta and makes lavender honey to top roasted plums with mascarpone.

Kelly also likes it in savory dishes. "It's great with lamb."

"I think people are a little intimidated by it because it's so fragrant ..." Kelly said. "It has a potent flavor _ it doesn't take much."

Hear that, home cooks? Go easy on it.

And if you need something to sip, Milwaukee-based Rishi Tea sells an organic Fair Trade Earl Grey lavender black tea on its Web site, www.rishi-tea.com.

ROOTED IN HISTORY

Lavender, a low-growing perennial shrub that's native to the Mediterranean, has been used for more than 2,500 years. The Egyptians used it in the mummification process, and the Romans used its oils for bathing, cooking and scenting the air, as well as for medicinal purposes.

The name comes from the Latin word lavare, meaning "to wash," which hints at its historical uses. (And the color is named after the flower.) It has antiseptic properties and was strewn over castle floors in the Middle Ages as a disinfectant, according to Maggie Stuckey's "The Complete Herb Book."

Now its essential oil is well-known for aromatherapy, and lavender is used for treating everything from burns and bug bites to headaches and insomnia. There's even a "hangover remedy" that contains lavender buds.

In recognition of its health and wellness properties, lavender was named 1999 Herb of the Year by the International Herb Association, and that designation helped inspire Ali'i Chang to start Ali'i Kula Lavender.

A NEW BUSINESS

Chang grew up on Oahu and moved to Maui to grow tropical flowers near the end of the famous winding "Road to Hana." He later sold the farm and bought an old farm of protea, or pine cone-shaped flowers, while he pondered his next venture.

Lavender isn't native to Hawaii, but it had been brought from England for the royal palace in Honolulu in the 19th century, Chang said.

After a few twists of fate, Chang started planting lavender.

He began with French dentata, and "it grew so well for us" that he added more. Now he has 55,000 lavender plants.

He said water is a big issue on Maui _ the sugar cane fields had to be irrigated _ but lavender is drought-tolerant, and his plants get enough water from rain and the moisture in the air.

Chang said he doesn't water at all, and the steep slopes keep the water draining. The lavender loves the climate, he said, because "it doesn't like wet feet." (But who wouldn't love the climate on Maui?)

Because lavender is a natural antiseptic, he said he has no bugs in the fields and no need to spray for pests. He hasn't gone through the rigors of the organic certification process but uses what he calls safe practices.

The lavender is all harvested by hand, guide Cookie Pacheco explained on a tour. There are more than 200 kinds of lavender, Pacheco said, of which 45 of varying colors, sizes and scents are grown on the farm, and five are used in products.

The English hybrid "grosso," for example, has lots of oil and is used in tea and lemonade, jelly and for culinary lavender. It helps circulation and memory, said Pacheco, who uses lavender tea to settle an upset stomach.

The English hybrid "super" has a high oil content and is used for aromatherapy; the gray French dentata is used in the farm's scones.

A NICHE FOR FARMERS

Chang knows that it's tough to be a small farmer, so he has emphasized collaboration and creativity. The farm has partnered with 25 small businesses in Hawaii and on the mainland and focused on value-added products, as well as education.

For example, the scones are made by a local baker. The sweet potato and taro chips are made by the Hawaiian Chip Co. Ali'i Kula Lavender does the branding, which includes a dragonfly emblem, or pinao in Hawaiian, which symbolizes personal rebirth and renewal. (The farm's slogan is "relax, rejuvenate, renew.")

Chang knows that presentation is important, and he himself wears a lavender shirt and a pinao cap. When it rains, visitors borrow lavender umbrellas.

The business has grown tremendously since 2002 and now does a lot of sales at its Web site, www.aliikulalavender.com. The farm's visitors, once all local, now include some tourists.

And there's no need to rush through your visit _ indeed, it's hard for anyone to hurry when intoxicated by the aroma of soothing lavender.

Recipes:

The lamb chop, poundcake and vichyssoise recipes come from Ali'i Kula Lavender. More recipes are available at www.aliikulalavender.com.

LAVENDER PISTACHIO LAMB CHOPS

Makes 8 servings

2/3 cup pistachios, toasted

2 tablespoons dried culinary lavender

8 lamb chops, preferably loin (or rack of lamb)

Salt and pepper

Olive oil

˝ cup honey

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

In food processor, pulse pistachios and lavender until nuts are broken but not powdered. Season lamb with salt and pepper.

Heat a cast-iron pan to medium-high. Add enough oil to coat pan well. Add chops and sear well, turning once. Set aside.

In small saucepan, heat honey just to warm. Dredge each chop in honey, then in lavender-pistachio mixture. Place on a sheet pan and finish cooking in preheated oven for 12 to 14 minutes or to desired doneness. Let rest at least 5 minutes for chops, or 10 minutes for rack before carving. Note: Pork chops can be substituted for lamb.

___

POUNDCAKE WITH BLUEBERRIES AND LAVENDER SYRUP

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 cups flour

˝ teaspoon baking powder

Ľ teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 ˝ cups sugar

3 large eggs, room temperature

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

˝ cup whole milk, room temperature

Lavender syrup with blueberries (see recipe)

To make cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees with rack in middle position. Generously butter and flour a 9-by-5-inch metal loaf pan.

In medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt. In large mixing bowl, beat butter and sugar with mixer at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, then beat in lemon zest and vanilla. Reduce speed to low and add flour mixture and milk alternately in batches, beginning and ending with flour. Mix until just incorporated.

Spoon batter into loaf pan and bake until golden and a pick inserted into center comes out with crumbs adhering, 1 to 1 Ľ hours. Cool cake in pan on rack 30 minutes, then remove from pan and cool completely on rack.

While cake bakes, make lavender syrup.

Spoon berries and syrup over cake slices just before serving.

Note: Cake can be made 1 day ahead and cooled completely, then wrapped in plastic wrap or kept in an airtight container at room temperature. Syrup (without berries) can be made 2 hours ahead and kept covered at room temperature. Add berries just before serving.

Lavender syrup:

ľ cup water

˝ cup sugar

4 teaspoons dried culinary lavender or 2 tablespoons fresh flowers

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 pint blueberries

In small saucepan, bring water and sugar to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and stir in lavender, then steep at least 30 minutes for culinary lavender or 40 minutes for fresh. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding lavender. Stir in lemon juice and blueberries.

___

LAVENDER CAULIFLOWER VICHYSSOISE

Makes 8 to 10 servings

2 quarts chicken stock

1 tablespoon dried culinary lavender

2 large russet potatoes

1 large leek

1 small head cauliflower

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 ˝ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon white pepper, or to taste

Fresh chives for garnish

In pot on back burner, heat chicken stock just to a simmer and add lavender. Keep stock at just a simmer.

Meanwhile, peel and cut potatoes into 1-inch cubes into a bowl and cover them with water. Set aside.

Clean leek and chop into 1-inch sections, using all of the white and some of the pale green part. Chop cauliflower into small florets.

Heat a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Add olive oil and then saute leek and garlic in oil until soft, about 5 minutes. Add cauliflower and saute until it sweats. Add stock to vegetables through a strainer to strain out lavender as you pour. When soup has returned to a simmer, drain potatoes and add to soup. Add salt and white pepper and cook until potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Let soup cool 10 minutes.

Puree in batches in a blender (or using hand-held blender), then mix together all batches in a large container. Cover and chill, then serve garnished with fresh chives.

___

Recipes for both the iced Victorian cookies and the shortbread cookies come from The Spice House.

___

VICTORIAN LAVENDER COOKIES WITH ROSE WATER

Makes 3 to 4 dozen cookies

˝ cup (1 stick) butter

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

1 teaspoon dried culinary lavender, crushed

1 ˝ cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

Ľ teaspoon salt

2 cups powdered sugar

5 ˝ teaspoons water

6 ˝ teaspoons rose water

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In bowl, cream together butter and sugar. Add eggs, lavender, flour, baking powder and salt.

Drop by teaspoons onto lightly greased or non-stickcookie sheet, about 2 inches apart. Bake in preheated oven about 10 minutes. Transfer cookies to wire rack after about 1 minute.

While cookies bake, prepare icing by mixing powdered sugar with water and rose water. Drizzle over cooled cookies.

___

LAVENDER SUGAR SHORTBREAD COOKIES

Makes 30 to 40 cookies

2 cups flour

˝ cup lavender sugar

Ľ cup sugar

14 tablespoons (1 ľ sticks) unsalted butter, firm, cut into chunks

1 large egg yolk

1 ˝ teaspoons light cream or whole milk

1 teaspoon rose water or vanilla extract

Ľ teaspoon salt

In large bowl, stir together flour and sugars. Using 2 forks, a pastry blender or hands, cut butter into flour mixture until mixture is consistency of coarse corn meal.

In small bowl, beat together egg yolk, cream, rose water and salt until well blended. Stir, then knead, the egg yolk mixture into the flour mixture until evenly incorporated.

Divide dough in half. Roll each portion between sheets of wax paper, until Ľ inch thick. With paper still attached, stack on a baking sheet and refrigerate 30 minutes (or freeze about 15 minutes).

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease several baking sheets.

Working with 1 portion at a time, and leaving remaining dough chilled, peel away top sheet. Using a roughly 2-inch shape, cut out cookies. Use a spatula to transfer cookies to baking sheet, about 1 Ľ inches apart. Reroll any dough scraps. If dough gets too soft, return to refrigerator.

Bake cookies, one sheet at a time, in middle third of oven 9 to 13 minutes, or until just lightly browned at the edges. Immediately transfer cookies to a wire rack. Cool completely.

Store in an airtight container up to 2 weeks or freeze up to 2 months.

Note: Lavender vanilla sugar is available at The Spice House.

This recipe is from the Happy Valley Lavender and Herb Farm in Vancouver, British Columbia. The Web site notes that hidcote lavender turns lemonade rosy pink; other varieties are paler. Avoid piney-smelling lavenders, such as spike.

This makes an extremely fragrant, pleasant-tasting drink that's not too sweet or too tart.

___

LAVENDER LEMONADE

Makes 6 cups

1 cup sugar

5 cups water (divided)

1 tablespoon dried culinary lavender or Ľ cup fresh blooms, stripped from stems

1 cup fresh lemon juice, strained (about 6 lemons)

Ice cubes

Lavender sprigs for garnish (optional)

In medium saucepan, combine sugar with 2 ˝ cups water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add dried lavender or lavender blooms, cover and remove from heat. Let stand at least 20 minutes and up to several hours.

Strain, discarding lavender, and pour infusion into a glass pitcher. Add lemon juice and remaining 2 ˝ cups water. Stir well. Pour into tall glasses half-filled with ice, or refrigerate until ready to use.

___

LAVENDER TO THE LIMIT

Use a pretty flower stalk as a stir stick. "You could be the talk of the party," said Ali'i Chang of Ali'i Kula Lavender.

Use short pieces to decorate a wedding cake. The stems will infuse the cake with a hint of lavender, he says.

Throw a bit in the fireplace for a nice scent.

Make a lavender martini by putting three sprigs in the alcohol and keeping it chilled, Chang said. Serve in an ice-cold glass with a sprig for decoration.

Harvest the flowers and dry them for sachets when the first buds begin to open.

___

© 2008, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel.