Power and elegance in fall fashion

The Philadelphia Inquirer (MCT) - Contemporary women's style is taking its cues this fall from the late 1950s and early '60s _ the country's most well-tailored and fiercely feminine era in fashion.

But this time around, women are donning ruffled blouses, mid-calf pencil skirts, and bateau-neck shifts _ with contrasting gloves _ without having to deal with the economic and social restraints that once kept them powerless.

"This fall we are seeing a modern take on what was an elegant time for women," said Sean General, women's buyer for Boyds Philadelphia.

"Back in the '50s and '60s, women had their place in society. They wore these strong looks, but there was no power in their femininity."

What better way to celebrate the rediscovery of clean lines and waistlines than to pose some of Philadelphia's most independent, mature and h-o-t ladies with this year's most coveted fashion accessory _ the younger man?

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Our three models: Mona Lisa Jackson, 51, is owner of Coeur, an upscale lingerie shop on Philadelphia's Sansom Street; Toni Crawford-Major, 52, is southeast regional director of the Pennsylvania Department of Community and Economic Development; and Sharon Phillips Waxman, 51, is president of SPW Productions and founder of Phashion Phest, an annual fashion event that takes place this month at the Loews Philadelphia Hotel in Center City.

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The trick to accomplishing this look is taking the classics and modernizing them. These are not the dresses and somber suits of your grandmother's era, so scratch the pillbox hats and accessorize the updated version of this sleek silhouette with colored opaque tights, Mary Jane pumps _ spectator or patent leather _ and funky envelope clutches. Try an oversized purse with a mix of patent and tweed to play with textures.

Jewel-toned sweaters and fitted jackets are a nice touch. Think cobalt blue, deep burgundy or emerald green. The extra little pop will help you bring yesteryear's looks into this millennium.

Don't go searching in thrift shops, General said, because while the look is simple, it is not cheap. Keep that in mind when picking fabrics. Look for wool and cotton blends.

"You want a suit that looks vintage, but it's supposed to be new," General said. "Today's ruffle is not so soft, it's more edgy."

More than the ruffle has changed.

When this look was last popular, single women older than 25 were spinsters, and women over 30 were too old to be sexy. In the 1970s, women took over their sexual freedom; the iconic fashion image for that time was bell-bottoms.

Then as women climbed the corporate ladder in the '80s and '90s, they expressed their power with shoulder pads and minimalist pantsuits. That was followed by the pink Swarovski-crystaled girly look that many women said left them out of the style equation.

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Sprinkled throughout those years, we also saw vintage pieces from the Camelot era: a pastel shift here, pearls there, round-toe pumps everywhere.

Yet with every decade, women became more powerful.

Now Nancy Pelosi is speaker of the House of Representatives, and Hillary Rodham Clinton came within a hair of the Democratic presidential nomination.

These cultural markers continue to bolster women's decision-making capacity _ and with that, fashion choices _ enabling them to choose who and what they want to be: whether it's a corporate executive, a stay-at-home mom, or a connoisseur of the younger man.

"Women are experiencing a sense of freedom and are finally releasing themselves of social barriers," said Susan Winter, author of "Older Women, Younger Men" (New Horizon Press, 2000). "Women can enjoy the fullness of life, and that includes everything from buying a house to fashion to dating. They are living on their own terms."

According to a 2003 survey by AARP, 35 percent of women age 40 to 69 wanted to date younger men, and, according to the survey, 34 percent were.

Since then, such relationships have become even more acceptable, said Valerie Gibson, author of "Cougar, A Guide for Older Women Dating Younger Men" (Firefly 2002). Gibson defines a cougar as a strong, self-assured woman older than 40 who dates men at least 15 years younger.

Gibson credits this shift to celebrities like Demi Moore, Halle Berry, Mariah Carey and Ivana Trump, all well known for dating younger men.

"They are fabulous and healthy and attractive. Just look at Helen Mirren," Gibson said. "And now men are searching them out. There are actual cougar hunters!"

Hotties know no age, huh?

But the choices extend beyond arm candy. With this look, women are still free to mix high and low prices, black and turquoise, or pearls and metal to create their own style.

Designers including Michael Kors, Lanvin and Tracy Reese have designed a plethora of pieces available in stores this fall that fit into this look. The key pieces are tailored skirts, wide-legged trousers, and shifts.

But you may also find the look more affordably with Macy's brand INC and even Nordstrom's Savvy department. Even H&M has a few classy options.

We suggest you buy jewelry from Forever 21 or Rainbow Shops _ but only jewelry. Clothing in these stores never looks luxurious.

Last, keep in mind that although today's modern-woman chic harks back to yesterday, designers' sensibilities are rooted in today's ultra-thin standard.

If you have curves, don't be alarmed that you may have to buy that pencil skirt one size bigger and have the waist tailored.

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When you wear a blouse, it should be smooth, and not pull around the chest. You may want to try a bodysuit-blouse combination that tucks into your pants or skirt. A few designers, including Armani, make a blouse that zips along the side to solve that problem.

So, ladies, it's time to take advantage of this age-appropriate style. Focus your shopping on finding a good skirt or dress and relive the glamour of yesterday _ this time with perks.

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© 2008, The Philadelphia Inquirer.